Friday, August 13, 2021

Mercedes GLC 300 (X253) AC • Air Conditioning Smell

Mercedes AC Smell and Filter Change


If you own a Mercedes-Benz, model year 2008 to 2020 there is a good chance you will or have faced less than desirable smells from your Air Conditioning or HVAC system. You can read more on this case here: Top Class Actions


This article is to deal with this issue yourself and make sure it is done well and right. I decided to write this article based on my less than adequate response I received when investigating how this problem would be handled by Mercedes. 


NOTE: I love Mercedes, both old and new and every manufacturer runs into less than desirable complications. I see it this way, if the manufacture deals with the problem ethically we chalk this up to trial and error of engineering, if they don't, that's a whole different story. With this, I would prefer to deal with a relatively simple smell issue on a periodic basis than many other and more frequent issues that plague many other expensive cars.


At the end of this article you may read the conclusion I have reached based on my engaging in the cleaning process.


As an owner of a 2018 Mercedes GLC 300 4Matic-AMG package, I was truly disappointed to smell hints of musty air flow from the vents on one of our rare humid days. Living in the desert southwest, it is rarely humid and so the problem only occurs during the monsoon season. Nonetheless, it is not pleasant or proper and it needed to be addressed.





After considerable research and discussing the issue with my Mercedes-Benz dealership and Mercedes Benz USA customer service, it became apparent there was no "fix" for this issue. The recommended course of action was maintenance as needed when the smell returns. My dealer stated they will gladly have the car in to replace both HVAC filters and spray the filters with Febreze and change as often as needed at no cost. That resolution, while appreciated, I not what I would expect Mercedes-Benz to suggest through their dealers and far from what I personally want. In my opinion, Febreze stinks and is only masking one smell for another.

With that, my research lead me back to Germany where I find most products to be excellent, yes even Mercedes, which is why I own several, and will always hopefully own the brand. The product I discovered was Klima Clean from Nextzett. If you never heard of them their products have been around for 80 years under the name Einzett. Nextzett is the new entity and has kept the original great products from Einzett and is further building on that brand. 

Nextzett Klima Clean claims to remove the crud and oder from the evaporator, evaporator casing and drain area by dissolving it and allowing it to drain out the of system through the systems drain tube. When Klima Clean is dispensed from the can, the product expands into a foam that penetrates the evaporator core and surrounding areas of the case. The product liquifies quite quickly and drains from from the casing.

The image below was taken using a camera scope about 3 minutes after dispensing Klima Clean into the Air-conditioning evaporator box of a 2018 Mercedes GLC 300 Coupe. 







APPLYING KLIMA CLEAN TO A 2018 MERCEDES GLC 300

A few thoughts before we get started: Unless you know for a fact you have an all manual climate control system, I would highly recommend following the directions on the can exactly and not dispense the product through the air vents on the dash. In addition, do not dispense Klima Clean through the fan blades of the blower. There is a good chance you may end applying the product to areas that will not drain properly or come in contact with other components in the system ducting that could easily get ruined.

Finally, if you do remove the blower assembly, don't take for granted your access to the evaporator is all clear.  Electronic components can be located along the ducting and should not be exposed to liquid. 

LET'S GET STARTED

Required Tools

Other helpful tools for the job - Endoscope wireless camera and a new filter(s)

Take all necessary safety precautions when working on your vehicle and with chemicals. 

STEP 1
First, check your primary cabin air filter. for LHD vehicles remove the passenger side cover which houses the battery and the primary air filter. To do this, turn the two locks to a horizontal position and gently lift up on the front side of the cover and pull forward. Note how the end of the cover closest to the firewall is inserted in a channel. Be sure to return it exactly as it came out.





STEP 2
Unclip the primary cabin filter housing above the battery. On the left and right side of the filter are retaining clips. Choose a side to start and gently press in to the side of the housing while gently pulling forward. When one side is lose repeat process on the opposite side. The filter housing will now more than likely be hanging from the top clips. Simply tilt slightly back as if opening a hinged lid and unhook. Again, be sure to refit this housing exactly as it came out or both dirt and water may enter the system. Inspect filter and replace if necessary. I recommend using Mercedes filters only. 



You will notice while the filter housing is off, you can inspect the air intake area and blower unit. Check for any debris located in the area. If the filter housing has been properly fitted from the last filter change the area around the blower ducting should be very clean. 


You will also notice a flap of sorts that has a white gasket. This is the "door" that shuts when the recirculate cabin air button is turned on. DO NOT attempt to move this door manually. 

Reverse process to complete job.


STEP 3
Now check the secondary charcoal activated cabin air filter. This filter is located under the glovebox. The following panel will have to be removed.
























To remove the panel you will need a T15 torx socket or screwdriver. Carefully remove the one center screw. Once the screw is removed, gently pull down on the right and left corners to release the metal clips. I recommend doing one side at a time. NEVER USE FORCE, check it before you break it.

Once the panel is lose, it will take a bit of wiggling and coaxing to bring it down and slightly toward the seat. DO NOT attempt to pull it all the way out or you will break several wires that are attached to the back side of the panel. Once the panel is lowered enough, unplug the footwell light and sensor plug located to the inside front of the panel. Remove panel.


STEP 4
Unlock cabin filter door by sliding black plastic slide to the right. At this point the filter door may fall to the floor and the filter may partially fall out. DO NOT yank the filter out as it is a tight fit and will need to be angled and gently wiggled out.




Check the filter for dirt and oder and replace if necessary. Also inspect the green gasket on the filter door for gasket problems. 


STEP 5
At this point you are at your access point to apply the Klima Clean. The following images shows what you are aiming for with the extension tube. NOTE: Be sure to use good absorbent rags and a aplastic liner in the footwell area as the product in this vehicle will begin to expand back through the filter opening and drip behind the carpeting and onto the floor. 


Insert the extension tube as far as it will go into the HVAC box. Once tube is inserted into the unit, shake can well and connect extension to can. Gently fit the extension tube to can and be sure it is aligned before fully depressing nozzle button. Empty entire contents of can, OR pause as needed to keep expanding foam from coming back toward you and out of the system. KEEP CAN UPRIGHT while dispensing. Holding the can at an angle will likely prevent the can from completely emptying. It is important to dispense the entire can for proper cleaning.

Depending on where your vehicle is parked, you may wish to place rags or a container under the  area where the evaporator drains. The Klima Clean will quickly go from a foam to a liquid state and drain on to the floor/ground. Remember, if the car is at an angle, the liquid may drip at a different point than the actual drain tube location.

The camera scope image directly below shows the system 10 minutes into the 20 minute cleaning process and the Klima Clean foam disbursing.





STEP 6
Once the Klima Clean has been fully dispensed, simply install filter door, not the filter itself or the under dash cover. I recommend this as the vapors from the product may penetrate the filter making it more difficult to fully remove the residual smell while venting the system.

NOTE: If your car has a particularly strong musty smell coming from the system. I would repeat with another can after 20 min and once again wait 20 min before following the final steps. 


STEP 7
Now follow the directions exactly as the can indicates to allow the Klima Clean to work for a full 20 minutes followed by running the blower with the windows down. When the 20 minutes is up, the entire 10oz of Klima Clean should have drained out of the system at this time (see conclusion for more info on this). I turned the auto climate control setting off, ran the blower on "LO" or  (coldest) temp and the fan speed on max for 10 minutes. I also opened the hatch back to help the fumes vent faster and more throughly. 


STEP 8
DON'T FORGET, once the cleaning and venting process has been completed, fit the charcoal cabin filter. Returning the old filter or a new one is tricky as it will be entering the slot at an angle and will want to bind on the edge of the opening. Gently pull the front of the filter opening toward you to start the corner of the filter and continue to work it into position. DO NOT shove or bend the filter, it will go in with persistence and some patience.

Installing the filter door is the reverse of removing. Remember the door cover is does not slide into place but is installed going straight up. The left end "U" is inserted from the bottom straight up as well, not pressed in place.


STEP 9
Install under dash cover in reverse process from above and remember to plug in footwell light and sensor if fitted to your vehicle.


CONCLUSION:
WHY DOES THE MERCEDES AC SYSTEM SMELL?
After having performed this cleaning process with another foreign car (non-Mercedes), that has never suffered from a foul smelling Air Conditioning HVAC system, it is quite apparent why the various models from Mercedes are having trouble, they don't drain properly. 

When car "A" was cleaned you can see the liquid was easily flowing out in a steady stream as the Klima Clean liquified during the 20 minutes (second photo below). With the Mercedes GLC, only a very little fluid (about 100ml (1/4 cup) exited the system through the drain tube during that same time. Both cars were in the exact location for the cleaning. 

Image directly below shows how little  Klima Clean drained from the GLC 300 following the twenty minutes. While difficult to tell from the photo, this spot on the driveway was about 12 inches in length and two inches wide, again about 100ml (1/4 cup). In fact it dripped so slowly it dried as it seeped along the driveway.
























The image directly below is of car "A" (not a Mercedes) and highlighted is the free flowing stream of Klima Clean coming from the system drain.





















This is certainly a major problem and indicates that car "A"'s system completely emptied while the Mercedes GLC retained approximately 250ml of liquid. Yes, that will begin to stink if the car is allowed to sit for more than a day or two. 

Car "A" did have a drip pan underneath as it is 8 years old and I wanted to see if Klima Clean really removed grease, grime etc., which it did. For the GLC I simply allowed it to drain on the drive way, but observed the color/clarity of the fluid draining from the system. No alarming colored liquid exited either car.

Image above shows Klima Clean after draining from HVAC in car "A"











However, when the GLC was started and the air conditioning turned on "LO" (coldest) with full fan, you can see the Klima Clean began to flow out of the system in a steady stream. This indicates once again that water is being trapped in the system. The water is however forced out by air pressure once the system fan is turned on due to the fact that spray (not visible on video) was being forced from the drain tube sporadically. With car "A", very little dripped out once the car was running and the air on "LO" and fan on full. 



Both cars did drip condensation after about 2 minutes from having the doors open on the vehicles and the humidity at 68%. 

Once the water dripped clear on each car, I turned off the system and called it a day. When the system was turned off on each car, car "A" continued to drip at a fairly good rate, while the GLC 300 stopped within a few seconds of light dripping.  Both cars smelled fresh, especially the Mercedes GLC. We will see how long this lasts and I will report back. 


MY ADVICE
Knowing this, I will be turning my fan on high a few minutes before I arrive at home to hopefully blow out as much residual water as possible. The AC does not need to be on for this and potentially would be better if it were not since the system will continue to draw water from the air. 

Just my two cents!








Saturday, August 7, 2021

Mercedes R107 450SL Belt Check, Replace, Tension Adjust

It's often very easy to ignore regular service items when owning a classic Mercedes-Benz. No reminders from the dealership, no milage reminder on the dash, etc. So it is important to be your own service advisor and make a schedule of everything you do and when it needs to be done next.

With regard to to the R107, regular inspections such as checking the belts and replacing when needed is critical. 

CHECKING THE BELTS

The Mercedes R107 450SL has 6 pulleys, one tensioner wheel, and 5 belts. 


1. Alternator (1 - 4) 2. Smog Pump (2 - 4) 3. Water Pump (3-4-7) 4. Engine Crank Pulley 5. Belt Tensioner 6. AC Compressor  (6-5-4) 7. Power Steering (7-3-4).


ALTERNATOR BELT - REMOVAL OR ADJUSTMENT

Only loosen bolt enough to allow movement


SMOG PUMP BELT - REMOVAL OR ADJUSTMENT

Only loosen bolt enough to allow movement


WATER PUMP & POWER STEERING BELT - REMOVAL OR ADJUSTMENT

Only loosen bolt enough to allow movement. NOTE: The power steering unit also provides the tension adjustment for the water pump pulley.


AC COMPRESSOR BELT - REMOVAL OR ADJUSTMENT

Only loosen bolt on tensioner enough to allow movement.


BELT INSTALLATION ORDER

When installing the belts, the following order must be used: Power steering to water pump to crank (X2), AC Compressor to tensioner to crank, Alternator to crank, Smog to crank. When one belt is beginning to show signs of wear, all belts should be changed. 



BELT TENSIONING

Belt tensioning is critical for each of the components they are driving, so don't guess.Tension that is too loose will cause the belt to slide in the pulley grove causing damage to the belt and polishing of the pulley, in addition it will cause erratic operation of the component being driven, causing potential damage or safety issues. Subsequently belts that are too tight, will likely cause damage to the driven components by damaging the component's driveshaft and or damaging the components bearings. Every manufacturer provides specific belt tension for each model they produce. 

For the 1975 Mercedes-Benz 450SL the tension for each belt is 23kg or 50lbs.  I use the Gates 91107 Krikit V-Belt Tension Gauge which is an inexpensive and quick way to do the job right.



Monday, June 7, 2021

Mercedes Benz (X253) GLC 300 4Matic - A Modern Journey

 While this blog is primarily focused on classic Mercedes W123 and 107 models, I will be adding to this blog a late model Mercedes, specifically a 2018 X253 Mercedes GLC 300 Coupé, 4MATIC with the AMG package.  The focus of this vehicle will be all about maintenance, keeping it detailed along with what products to use on what parts, overall durability and options that are worth the extra money.


So far, this Mercedes has been very good and the warranty items have been handled with exceptional professionalism by the dealer. There is one item I still have not dealt with which will be covered for as long as it takes to see it resolved. The item in question is a decorative metal trim on the gear selector lever which is loose and buzzes when traveling on rougher surfaced roads. Ironically I was just in a 2021 GLC 300 SUV service loaner that had the same trim that was buzzing on the way home!

All that aside, we will dig into this very fun to drive coupé from front to back coming up. Yes, more on the retro stuff as well. 

Until next time... 


Thursday, January 28, 2021

Mercede-Benz Museum Virtual Tour

 A COVID SAFE TOUR OF THE MERCEDES-BENZ MUSEUM


Perhaps a virtual COVID free trip to Stuttgart, Germany will do some of us car enthusiasts good while we are bound to our homes. 

This brief photographic tour of the Mercedes-Benz museum and headquarters located in Stuttgart, Germany is for any Mercedes enthusiast who has not had the opportunity to visit. 

After many trips to Germany I finally visited the museum in 2019. I hope you enjoy your visit.











Mercedes Benz Experimental Safety Vehicle











Monday, January 25, 2021

W123 Diesel Buyers Guide | 240D | 300D | 300CD

Find the Best Mercedes Diesel W123

A very pampered all original 1981 Mercedes Benz 240D with 207,000 miles


One of my readers asked what to look for when purchasing a higher mileage 240D. In this instance the car he was looking at had logged 200,000 miles. Is this still a good purchase? Let's dig and and find out.

If you are in the market for a W123 Diesel there are several things you should know before you take the plunge. This article will focus strictly on sedans and coupé models of 4 and 5 cylinder models with and without turbo. The TD model will not be discussed here as they have their own unique issues that I am personally not familiar enough with to discuss.

So just how do you find a worthy diesel W123? 


LET'S DISCUSS RUST

1. Depending on where the car has lived, I wouldn't even drive it or care to know if it even runs with out first thoroughly checking for rust. Just because it is a Mercedes doesn't mean it can't suffer from sever corrosion issues.

• If at all possible get it up on a lift and check all of the sills and wheel arches carefully. If it looks too new or clean I would do a lot more digging to find out if it was repaired or if damage was covered over. If you can't get it up on a lift, make sure you get on the ground and get the best view you can with a bright flashlight. Be sure to knock on the metal, poke, squeeze etc. all around. 

• Inspect the trunk. Ask to have the side plastic liners, and spare tires removed for your inspection. If the back window or trunk gasket has or is currently leaking you could have a disaster of rust on your hands to contend with. In addition check the gasket and the areas between the gasket and the fender and rear window. Gently tug on the gasket in numerous areas to make sure it still has a good seal. 

• Open the hood and check the hinge areas to make sure they are free of rust and that the drain holes are free from debris. If these areas get filled with debris, the water will not drain and cause considerable rust issues. 

• Should the car be equipped with a sunroof, make sure it functions well. Open it and inspect the gasket and for any rust around the perimeter of the seal and the roof portion itself. These sunroofs are prone to leak and rust. Check also the headliner for any potential water damage. 

• Check the lower corners of the rear window for rust

• Lift the floor mats front and back and check for any rust from water accumulation. This can be caused by a car sitting outside with the windows left open or from windshield gasket damage or as simple as the car having been in a flood.

1981 Mercedes Benz 240D Engine Bay


THE MECHANICS

Mercedes built, in my opinion, the best 4 and 5 cyl. Diesel engines in existence today. Along with a stout, safe and beautiful body design, it is no doubt an icon of automotive history.

As the owner of a 1981 240D with 207,000 miles, I would not think twice about hopping in my car for a trip across the U.S. I do however know this car very well, and have become intimately involved with the car and know exactly what has been done from front to back. With that, owning a W123 is great fun, but is most enjoyed when you can drive it like any other late model car in your garage. 

So, what to know, feel and listen for:

STARTING

• When you visit the car for a test drive, request the car not be run for at least 24 hours before your arrival. While you may not fully know if this happened, make sure when you turn the key to heat the glow plugs, the temp gauge reads fully cold.

Starting from fully cold will indicate several things. For one, it will give you a good idea on compression and two it will tell you if the preheat system is in good working order. Should the temps be in the 70ºF plus degree range when starting the car from cold, the amber glow plug light on the dash should remain light for approximately 4-5 seconds. In the 40ºF - 50ºF range it should take approximately 6-8 seconds and at 32ºF about 9-12 seconds. 

Under the conditions mentioned above, the car should start in the first 2-3 seconds max. It may be a few seconds longer at freezing and below. If you are testing a car in freezing and below, inquire if the car has had anti-gel mixed with the diesel in order for it to flow properly. If the anti-gel has not been added the diesel will be too thick to flow. 

If the system is in need of new glow plugs, other pre-heat components or has bad compression the car will likely crank for longer than normal. If the car cranks for longer than 3-5 seconds, turn the key back to the off "0" position and restart the pre-heat process again. Should the car start immediately after a second heating cycle, it will most likely indicate that the glow plugs are fowled from carbon or in need of replacement.

Should the car remain difficult to start, sputter etc., it could indicate the following: Clogged fuel tank filter, clogged primary and secondary fuel filter, injection pump timing, poor compression. 

• With a fully warm excellent condition engine, the car should start almost faster than you can let go of the key. Remember a fully warm Mercedes diesel, means it was not running for the past 15 or so minutes. These engines cool down rapidly and will require a pre-heat for maximum starting efficiency.

• As soon as the engine starts, the oil pressure should indicate 3 bar within 3-4 seconds. Just as soon as you make sure that checks out, quickly get out and take a look at the color and amount of exhaust. Believe it or not, a well maintained engine should emit very little smoke which should be brownish black in color. Any blue or white should indicate more extensive engine testing be performed such as compression. 

When the engine is fully warm only a very little brownish black smoke should be seen when taking off from a stop and not be visible at all from the rearview mirror once up to speed. I would personally have someone follow me and give an account for how much smoke and color when the car is under load. Many mechanics will say "all these cars smoke a lot and always have" which is not quit true. They do smoke more than a gasoline engine but should not emit a black contrail in the wake of your departure.

NOTE: If you have a 300D or 300CD turbo models, I would have that check out by a reputable mechanic who knows old Mercedes.

The following videos show start up from cold (dashboard view), start up from warm (engine view), tail pipe emissions under load, 






TURNING THE ENGINE OFF

After starting the engine turn it off after about 2 minute. The engine should stop immediately while giving the car a good shake. If the engine should hesitate to stop immediately there is most likely a vacuum leak somewhere in the system or the vacuum pump is not functioning properly. If the engine does not turn off with one solid shake, there is likely a compression issue. You should definitely feel the car jolt when the key is turned off. Should the engine not turn off at all once the ignition has been turned to the off position there is most likely a bad vacuum leak due to cracked hosing. Should this happen the engine can be stopped manually by way of a lever mounted at the backside of the valve cover. Yes, Mercedes built this feature in to the system for this very reason.


CHECKING FLUIDS

As with any car, check that the crank case has the proper amount of oil. Proper for these cars are mid-way between the low and full mark. Looking at the oil is probably pointless since even brand new oil turns black as soon as you run the engine. Oil should be changed every 3000 miles for the absolute best care.

• Check the power steering fluid to make sure the fluid level is proper and the fluid is clean and does not smell burned. ATF is the proper fluid for this system. 

• Pull the radiator cap and look at the water. It should be either blue or green coolant in the system. Mercedes coolant is Blue and others are generally green. In addition smell the coolant to see if it has a metallic smell. If it does and the coolant is tinged brown or hazy the coolant is old. Coolant should be changed every 2-3 years. 

• Open the brake fluid reservoir and see what color the fluid is. It should be virtually clear. If it is darker it is probably old brake fluid which is hard on the braking components. Mercedes recommends break fluid to be changed every spring. 

• And finally check the transmission fluid to make sure it looks clean and pink and does not have a burned smell. Also be sure it is at the proper fluid level after the car has been driven for 15 min and the engine is fully warm. 


CHECK FOR LEAKS

FLUIDS

While many old cars leaked Mercedes made pretty drip free cars. Again don't let a mechanic tel you, "they all leak like that". The only way that is true is if they need seals and gaskets replaced. So, if you see drips everywhere know you will either have to live with the leaks or have them fixed. 

As these cars continue to age with higher milage, be sure to check for any leaks at the transmission. Once fluid begins to seep from the servo covers the transmission is more than likely in need of a rebuild or replacement. It is important to note, a rebuilt trans replacement is not that costly. There is a very reputable Mercedes transmission rebuilder who has excellent prices and a good warranty. 

INJECTORS

Injectors should be dry and return hoses should be soft. If hoses are crispy they need to be replaced immediately. If the injectors are leaking at all they will need to be rebuilt. 

WATER PUMP

There should be no indication of corrosion around hosing and pump.


CHECK UNDER HOOD COMPONENTS

W123 Mercedes diesel fuel injection system

CHECK AIR FILTER

Should be clean

CHECK BELTS

Should be tight and crack free

BATTERY TRAY

The battery trays were notorious for rusting through. 

ENGINE MOUNTS

While the diesel motors do emit plenty of vibration it should not be unpleasant. Should the vibration be excessive, it may simply be the engine mounts that are bad. Due to the considerable wear and tare these mounts are subjected to, they will need replacing more frequently than that of a gasoline engine. I would only recommend Mercedes-Benz mounts as aftermarket brands have dismal results. 


OTHER COMPONENTS

LIGHTS

While inspecting the car, check to make sure all the lights work. Turn the headlight knob to the right once for marker lights, second click to the right for head lights, and while in the headlight mode pull the knob one click to activate the fog lights. The knob can be pulled out one more time should the car be equipped with rear fog lights but W123's destined for America did not have the rear fog light wired. After completing that check, turn the switch back to off and turn the knob left one turn and check to see that one side of the car from and back parking lights are light and the second turn to the left will turn on the opposite side front and back. These are used in Europe when parked overnight on the street.

Also, check reverse lights, number plate lights (X2), and interior trunk light


MULTI FUNCTION STALK

WIPERS

Check wipers. Please do not run the wipers dry on the windshield unless the owner says it is ok. you can always pull the wiper arms off the glass to the fully open poison and operate them. Running wipers dry can instantly leaves marks in the glass. The W123's had three wiper settings: Delay, slow and high speed. 

TURN SIGNAL

Standard operation for the turn signals. They do cancel however much later than many American cars of the day. They will cancel near the very and of your turn, but if set correctly will cancel only when the wheel has returned to almost straight ahead. Two large green arrows should flash on either side of the speedometer. Should the turn signal(s) flash rapidly either a bulb is burned out or the relay has failed. The relay for the turn signals is combined in the hazard switch button.

HIGHBEAMS 

As with late model cars, pull the stalk toward you to flash lights and push forward to turn on high beams. A blue indicator light should light on the lower portion of the instrument cluster. 

CRUISE CONTROL 

The cruise control is operated by both vacuum and electric components. If the the car has vacuum leaks the cruise control will not work. Know also that there is a good possibility that the cruise control module will not be working or working properly after all these years. Rebuilt units can be obtained for about $250 and is an easy installation. Before doing that however be sure it is not the vacuum portion of the cruise control that is mounted under the hood. Those are considerably more costly. Or, you can just forget the car has cruise control and remove it from the vacuum system. 

HORN

The horn should sound from any location on the horn pad with a very light touch.

HVAC

A number of W123's were fitted with the Delco compressor that never worked properly even from day one. While you can still get rebuilt units they are all tragic units that will only deliver a short life span and plenty of leaks. There is an excellent retrofit available to do away with these problems. More on that in a future article. Since various years had different systems, do you research on which year you are looking at and what system it has to properly test it. 

GEAR CHANGE LEVER

The gate shift lever should operate very smooth and with little effort. Any play in the lever may indicate a warn or broken bushing at the transmission. 

HAZARD LIGHTS

Test hazard light switch. If hazard lights do not work or work erratically, see turn signal section above.

IDLE CONTROL KNOB

Located on the dash just under the left side of the instrument cluster, is, or should be a black plastic flat knob. This knob adjusts the idle for cold starting and can also be used to increase the idle a bit while using the A/C. This knob is manually linked by Bowden cable directly to the throttle linkage. Turning the knob to the left will increase your idle while the revers will lower it. This knob however should never be turned to the left (increasing the idle) without depressing the throttle peddle. Turning the knob with out depressing the throttle often results in breaking the knob. The idle can however be turned down with out depressing the throttle peddle.

WINDOW WINDERS OR POWER WINDOWS

Test all power windows or window winders. The windows should operate smoothly and quietly in either case. Any binding during operation could be an indication of a future failure. 

SUNROOF (If fitted)

Make sure it has been well taken care of and there is no evidence of rust or leaks.

VENTS

Check all HVAC vents that they can be opened and closed and otherwise adjusted as original.

DOOR LOCKS

There is a good chance that the vacuum system has leaks. If this is the case, the door locks ma not work along with the fuel filler door lock and trunk lock. If the system is leaking it may also make it difficult or impossible to turn the engine off with the ignition key. The central locking system however can disconnected from the main vacuum line and be plugged. The locks can then be operated manually. 

DOORS/TRUNK

Doors should shut and latch easily and open just the same. If the doors do not close and open with precision question if the car has been in an accident or restored. In addition check all gaskets for deterioration. 

HOOD

The hood should open and close with ease and the under hood insolation should be in place. If the insolation has been removed or is deteriorated, it should be replaced at once to avoid ruining the paint. 


CONCLUSION

Other accessories the car may be equipped with should be looked at carefully along with careful attention to detail. Should you find a good specimen, you will have yourself a great, if not the best car on the road today. 

Again, this is only a rough check list and not necessarily complete, so do your homework and feel free to reply with any questions.