tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-42596863160932098212024-03-14T11:49:18.279-07:00Mercedes-Benz W123 and R107 DIYSupporting the classic Mercedes-Benz automotive community. Classic Mercedeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01126388566563927102noreply@blogger.comBlogger49125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4259686316093209821.post-37119503588466307732021-08-13T14:02:00.003-07:002021-08-13T14:13:17.960-07:00Mercedes GLC 300 (X253) AC • Air Conditioning Smell<h1 style="text-align: left;"><span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: 18px;">Mercedes AC Smell and Filter Change</span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 18px;"><br /></span></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: 18px;">If you own a Mercedes-Benz, model year 2008 to 2020 there is a good chance you will or have faced less than desirable smells from your Air Conditioning or HVAC system. You can read more on this case here: </span><a href="https://topclassactions.com/lawsuit-settlements/consumer-products/auto-news/mercedes-moldy-hvac-class-action-settlement-covers-2-5m-vehicles/" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: verdana; font-size: small;">Top Class Actions</span></a></p><p style="font-family: Times; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 23px;"><br /></p><p style="font-family: Times; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;">This article is to deal with this issue yourself and make sure it is done well and right. I decided to write this article based on my less than adequate response I received when investigating how this problem would be handled by Mercedes. </p><p style="font-family: Times; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><br /></p><p style="font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: 18px;">NOTE:</span><span style="font-family: verdana; font-size: 18px;"> </span><span style="font-family: Times; font-size: medium;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">I love Mercedes, both old and new and every manufacturer runs into less than desirable complications. I see it this way, if the manufacture deals with the problem ethically we chalk this up to trial and error of engineering, if they don't, that's a whole different story. With this, I would prefer to deal with a relatively simple smell issue on a periodic basis than many other and more frequent issues that plague many other expensive cars.</span></span></p><p style="font-family: Times; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><br /></p><p style="font-family: Times; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; text-align: justify;"><i>At the end of this article you may read the conclusion I have reached based on my engaging in the cleaning process.</i></p><p style="font-family: Times; font-size: 24px; font-stretch: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 29px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 18px; text-align: left;"><br /></span></p><p style="font-family: Times; font-size: 24px; font-stretch: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 29px; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: 18px; text-align: left;">As an owner of a 2018 Mercedes GLC 300 4Matic-AMG package, I was truly disappointed to smell hints of musty air flow from the vents on one of our rare humid days. Living in the desert southwest, it is rarely humid and so the problem only occurs during the monsoon season. Nonetheless, it is not pleasant or proper and it needed to be addressed.</span></p><p style="font-family: Times; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p></div></span></h1><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YUJniwYnvwE/YQKuKt3rkUI/AAAAAAAABEo/4MFKZV2KEnU9OLpJxn6XFtPrgCISVeAgACLcBGAsYHQ/s1372/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BAC%2BSmell%2B15.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1034" data-original-width="1372" height="482" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YUJniwYnvwE/YQKuKt3rkUI/AAAAAAAABEo/4MFKZV2KEnU9OLpJxn6XFtPrgCISVeAgACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h482/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BAC%2BSmell%2B15.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: times;">After considerable research and discussing the issue with my Mercedes-Benz dealership and Mercedes Benz USA custo</span><span style="font-family: times;">mer service, it became apparent there was no "fix" for this issue. The recommended course of action was maintenance as needed when the smell returns. My dealer stated they will gladly have the car in to replace both HVAC filters and spray the filters with Febreze and change as often as needed at no cost. That resolution, while appreciated, I not what I would expect Mercedes-Benz to suggest through their dealers and far from what I personally want. In my opinion, Febreze stinks and is only masking one smell for another.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">With that, my research lead me back to Germany where I find most products to be excellent, yes even Mercedes, which is why I own several, and will always hopefully own the brand. The product I discovered was Klima Clean from Nextzett. If you never heard of them their products have been around for 80 years under the name Einzett. Nextzett is the new entity and has kept the original great products from Einzett and is further building on that brand. </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><span face="rawline, sans-serif">Nextzett Klima Clean claims to remove the crud and oder from the evaporator, evaporator casing and drain area by dissolving it and allowing it to drain out the of system through the systems drain tube. When Klima Clean is dispensed from the can, the product expands into a foam that penetrates the evaporator core and surrounding areas of the case. The product liquifies quite quickly and drains from from the casing.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><span face="rawline, sans-serif"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><span face="rawline, sans-serif">The image below was taken using a camera scope about 3 minutes after dispensing Klima Clean into the Air-conditioning evaporator box of a 2018 Mercedes GLC 300 Coupe. </span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><span face="rawline, sans-serif"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b1s4mb09HAE/YRaw1uzdXRI/AAAAAAAABGM/XmDgtEZL6T4xI2F4U5oVc7DqC2Ev70XagCLcBGAsYHQ/s1234/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BX253%2BAir%2BConditioning%2BAC%2BSmell%2B1.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="922" data-original-width="1234" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b1s4mb09HAE/YRaw1uzdXRI/AAAAAAAABGM/XmDgtEZL6T4xI2F4U5oVc7DqC2Ev70XagCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h478/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BX253%2BAir%2BConditioning%2BAC%2BSmell%2B1.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span face="rawline, sans-serif"><br /></span></span></div><h3 style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #ffa400; font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></h3><h3 style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #ffa400; font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></h3><h3 style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #ffa400; font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></h3><h3 style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #ffa400; font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></h3><h3 style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #ffa400; font-family: helvetica;">APPLYING KLIMA CLEAN TO A 2018 MERCEDES GLC 300</span></h3><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span><span style="font-family: times;">A few thoughts before we get started: </span></span></span><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">Unless you know for a fact you have an all manual climate control system, I would highly recommend following the directions on the can exactly and not dispense the product through the air vents on the dash. In addition, do not dispense Klima Clean through the fan blades of the blower. There is a good chance you may end applying the product to areas that will not drain properly or come in contact with other components in the system ducting that could easily get ruined.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">Finally, if you do remove the blower assembly, don't take for granted your access to the evaporator is all clear. Electronic components can be located along the ducting and should not be exposed to liquid. </span></div><div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span><span style="font-family: times;"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span style="color: #ffa400; font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;"><b>LET'S GET STARTED</b></span></div><div><span style="color: #990000; font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div><b style="caret-color: rgb(153, 0, 0); font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: large;">Required Tools</span></b></div><div><span style="color: #990000; font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #990000; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E9rBhReKwB4/YPndet8lZ4I/AAAAAAAABD4/uu2_D7i6rJEXdD77-QYeBlHItKdb52agACLcBGAsYHQ/s1212/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BAC%2BSmell%2BTools.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1206" data-original-width="1212" height="636" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E9rBhReKwB4/YPndet8lZ4I/AAAAAAAABD4/uu2_D7i6rJEXdD77-QYeBlHItKdb52agACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h636/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BAC%2BSmell%2BTools.png" width="640" /></a></div><span style="color: #ffa400;">Other helpful tools for the job - Endoscope wireless camera and a new filter(s)</span><br /><b style="color: #990000;"><br /></b></span></div><div><b style="font-family: helvetica;">Take all necessary safety precautions when working on your vehicle and with chemicals. </b></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div><span style="color: #ffa400; font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;"><b>STEP 1</b></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">First, check your primary cabin air filter. for LHD vehicles remove the passenger side cover which houses the battery and the primary air filter. To do this, turn the two locks to a horizontal position and gently lift up on the front side of the cover and pull forward. Note how the end of the cover closest to the firewall is inserted in a channel. Be sure to return it exactly as it came out.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zF77gai3te4/YPmp70g-rBI/AAAAAAAABCo/6II5QEDBDlwm1gfSeISklB28wKFpmgg8ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1530/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BAC%2BSmell%2B1.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1144" data-original-width="1530" height="479" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zF77gai3te4/YPmp70g-rBI/AAAAAAAABCo/6II5QEDBDlwm1gfSeISklB28wKFpmgg8ACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h479/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BAC%2BSmell%2B1.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zBHPIqZSfn4/YPmqUyFZNUI/AAAAAAAABCw/rXLnZWt4XMkTTU7z8FwRaBGeIKqhxZRfwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1530/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BAC%2BSmell%2BFIlter%2B2.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1144" data-original-width="1530" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zBHPIqZSfn4/YPmqUyFZNUI/AAAAAAAABCw/rXLnZWt4XMkTTU7z8FwRaBGeIKqhxZRfwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h478/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BAC%2BSmell%2BFIlter%2B2.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #ffa400; font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;"><b>STEP 2</b></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">Unclip the primary cabin filter housing above the battery. On the left and right side of the filter are retaining clips. Choose a side to start and gently press in to the side of the housing while gently pulling forward. When one side is lose repeat process on the opposite side. The filter housing will now more than likely be hanging from the top clips. Simply tilt slightly back as if opening a hinged lid and unhook. Again, be sure to refit this housing exactly as it came out or both dirt and water may enter the system. Inspect filter and replace if necessary. I recommend using Mercedes filters only. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HE9tf8M5wwI/YPmqrOohhzI/AAAAAAAABC4/aRAhOLVP_6MRJVWrJvXAVN97d9Z_e9V9QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1412/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BAC%2BSmell%2BFilter%2B3.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1412" height="486" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HE9tf8M5wwI/YPmqrOohhzI/AAAAAAAABC4/aRAhOLVP_6MRJVWrJvXAVN97d9Z_e9V9QCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h486/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BAC%2BSmell%2BFilter%2B3.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FPMFfHdEM4U/YPmrRbbDrlI/AAAAAAAABDA/ANYfUigqi9UD4Q_SkyvklaQ-whn8QQBXgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1552/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BAC%2BSmell%2BFilter%2B4.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1166" data-original-width="1552" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FPMFfHdEM4U/YPmrRbbDrlI/AAAAAAAABDA/ANYfUigqi9UD4Q_SkyvklaQ-whn8QQBXgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BAC%2BSmell%2BFilter%2B4.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">You will notice while the filter housing is off, you can inspect the air intake area and blower unit. Check for any debris located in the area. If the filter housing has been properly fitted from the last filter change the area around the blower ducting should be very clean. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--empIoaSrMo/YPmrhKQuLaI/AAAAAAAABDE/TLB0SfY8yewrplb2pOPR37GUZauyncGXwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1556/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BAC%2BSmell%2BFilter%2B5.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1166" data-original-width="1556" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--empIoaSrMo/YPmrhKQuLaI/AAAAAAAABDE/TLB0SfY8yewrplb2pOPR37GUZauyncGXwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BAC%2BSmell%2BFilter%2B5.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /></div><div><span><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">You will also notice a flap of sorts that has a white gasket. This is the "door" that shuts when the recirculate cabin air button is turned on. </span><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><b>DO NOT</b></span><span style="font-family: helvetica;"> </span><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">attempt to move this door manually. </span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">Reverse process to complete job.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #ffa400; font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;"><b>STEP 3</b></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">Now check the secondary charcoal activated cabin air filter. This filter is located under the glovebox. The following panel will have to be removed.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-afBRV72LHWI/YPng38LX3EI/AAAAAAAABEA/v-2lVjfvmHQxB4GypAC3CufxVzubk5ZXQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1568/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BAC%2BSmell%2BFilter%2B9.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1178" data-original-width="1568" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-afBRV72LHWI/YPng38LX3EI/AAAAAAAABEA/v-2lVjfvmHQxB4GypAC3CufxVzubk5ZXQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BAC%2BSmell%2BFilter%2B9.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">To remove the panel you will need a T15 torx socket or screwdriver. Carefully remove the one center screw. Once the screw is removed, gently pull down on the right and left corners to release the metal clips. I recommend doing one side at a time.</span><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span><b>NEVER USE FORCE</b>, </span><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">check it before you break it.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">Once the panel is lose, it will take a bit of wiggling and coaxing to bring it down and slightly toward the seat.</span><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span><b>DO NOT</b> </span><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">attempt to pull it all the way out or you will break several wires that are attached to the back side of the panel. Once the panel is lowered enough, unplug the footwell light and sensor plug located to the inside front of the panel. Remove panel.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #ffa400; font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;"><b>STEP 4</b></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">Unlock cabin filter door by sliding black plastic slide to the right. At this point the filter door may fall to the floor and the filter may partially fall out. </span><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><b>DO NOT</b> </span><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">yank the filter out as it is a tight fit and will need to be angled and gently wiggled out.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-riG8hq3aYcY/YPmshDlZKKI/AAAAAAAABDY/CC-hsNIr5QgFpNbhSfaZrlaDInD8ws2QACLcBGAsYHQ/s1596/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BAC%2BSmell%2BFilter%2B10.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1596" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-riG8hq3aYcY/YPmshDlZKKI/AAAAAAAABDY/CC-hsNIr5QgFpNbhSfaZrlaDInD8ws2QACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BAC%2BSmell%2BFilter%2B10.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EIa6pbXDNDQ/YPmss_5Fw2I/AAAAAAAABDc/AMvZe1tXnVQez9pQGXUD4TR9LRLMWwFCwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1434/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BAC%2BSmell%2B11.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1076" data-original-width="1434" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EIa6pbXDNDQ/YPmss_5Fw2I/AAAAAAAABDc/AMvZe1tXnVQez9pQGXUD4TR9LRLMWwFCwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BAC%2BSmell%2B11.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">Check the filter for dirt and oder and replace if necessary. Also inspect the green gasket on the filter door for gasket problems. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #ffa400; font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;"><b>STEP 5</b></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">At this point you are at your access point to apply the Klima Clean. The following images shows what you are aiming for with the extension tube. NOTE: Be sure to use good absorbent rags and a aplastic liner in the footwell area as the product in this vehicle will begin to expand back through the filter opening and drip behind the carpeting and onto the floor. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IPp68TlsF3M/YRa9a9iyOwI/AAAAAAAABGU/1hdtQp3GzGk3jiM9Fiaj1nFe2pgZmq2WACLcBGAsYHQ/s1400/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BX253%2BAir%2BConditioning%2BAC%2BSmell%2B4.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1046" data-original-width="1400" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IPp68TlsF3M/YRa9a9iyOwI/AAAAAAAABGU/1hdtQp3GzGk3jiM9Fiaj1nFe2pgZmq2WACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h478/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BX253%2BAir%2BConditioning%2BAC%2BSmell%2B4.png" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div><span><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">Insert the extension tube as far as it will go into the HVAC box. Once tube is inserted into the unit, shake can well and connect extension to can. Gently fit the extension tube to can and be sure it is aligned before fully depressing nozzle button. Empty entire contents of can, OR pause as needed to keep expanding foam from coming back toward you and out of the system. </span><b style="font-family: helvetica;">KEEP CAN UPRIGHT</b><span style="font-family: helvetica;"> </span><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">while dispensing. Holding the can at an angle will likely prevent the can from completely emptying. It is important to dispense the entire can for proper cleaning.</span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">Depending on where your vehicle is parked, you may wish to place rags or a container under the area where the evaporator drains. The Klima Clean will quickly go from a foam to a liquid state and drain on to the floor/ground. Remember, if the car is at an angle, the liquid may drip at a different point than the actual drain tube location.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">The camera scope image directly below shows the system 10 minutes into the 20 minute cleaning process and the Klima Clean foam disbursing.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J8zEQaSAbDw/YRbcmcaxBGI/AAAAAAAABG0/cd2Ea7RZ7QYAB4pvNSJd4bzuTTUWAGHoACLcBGAsYHQ/s1234/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BX253%2BAir%2BConditioning%2BAC%2BSmell%2B2.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="930" data-original-width="1234" height="482" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J8zEQaSAbDw/YRbcmcaxBGI/AAAAAAAABG0/cd2Ea7RZ7QYAB4pvNSJd4bzuTTUWAGHoACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h482/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BX253%2BAir%2BConditioning%2BAC%2BSmell%2B2.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #ffa400; font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;"><b>STEP 6</b></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">Once the Klima Clean has been fully dispensed, simply install filter door, not the filter itself or the under dash cover. I recommend this as the vapors from the product may penetrate the filter making it more difficult to fully remove the residual smell while venting the system.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><b>NOTE:</b></span><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"> If your car has a particularly strong musty smell coming from the system. I would repeat with another can after 20 min and once again wait 20 min before following the final steps. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #ffa400; font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;"><b>STEP 7</b></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">Now follow the directions exactly as the can indicates to allow the Klima Clean to work for a full 20 minutes followed by running the blower with the windows down. When the 20 minutes is up, the entire 10oz of Klima Clean should have drained out of the system at this time (see conclusion for more info on this). I turned the auto climate control setting off, ran the blower on "LO" or (coldest) temp and the fan speed on max for 10 minutes. I also opened the hatch back to help the fumes vent faster and more throughly. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #ffa400; font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;"><b>STEP 8</b></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><b>DON'T FORGET</b>, </span><span><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">once the cleaning and venting process has been completed, fit the charcoal cabin filter. Returning the old filter or a new one is tricky as it will be entering the slot at an angle and will want to bind on the edge of the opening. Gently pull the front of the filter opening toward you to start the corner of the filter and continue to work it into position. </span><b style="font-family: helvetica;">DO NOT</b><span style="color: red; font-family: helvetica;"> </span><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">shove or bend the filter, it will go in with persistence and some patience.</span></span></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">Installing the filter door is the reverse of removing. Remember the door cover is does not slide into place but is installed going straight up. The left end "U" is inserted from the bottom straight up as well, not pressed in place.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #ffa400; font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;"><b>STEP 9</b></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">Install under dash cover in reverse process from above and remember to plug in footwell light and sensor if fitted to your vehicle.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #ffa400; font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;"><b>CONCLUSION:</b></span></div><div><span style="color: #ffa400; font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><b>WHY DOES THE MERCEDES AC SYSTEM SMELL?</b></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">After having performed this cleaning process with another foreign car (non-Mercedes), that has never suffered from a foul smelling Air Conditioning HVAC system, it is quite apparent why the various models from Mercedes are having trouble, they don't drain properly. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">When car "A" was cleaned you can see the liquid was easily flowing out in a steady stream as the Klima Clean liquified during the 20 minutes (second photo below). With the Mercedes GLC, only a very little fluid (about 100ml (1/4 cup) exited the system through the drain tube during that same time. Both cars were in the exact location for the cleaning. </span></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">Image directly below shows how little Klima Clean drained from the GLC 300 following the twenty minutes. While difficult to tell from the photo, this spot on the driveway was about 12 inches in length and two inches wide, again about 100ml (1/4 cup). In fact it dripped so slowly it dried as it seeped along the driveway.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CqCmaVxjYCQ/YRbTnoRttHI/AAAAAAAABGk/BPCUUb_ciVUqubsUTcIyr8m9OotW9LwbwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1330/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BX253%2BAir%2BConditioning%2BAC%2BSmell%2B6.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="998" data-original-width="1330" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CqCmaVxjYCQ/YRbTnoRttHI/AAAAAAAABGk/BPCUUb_ciVUqubsUTcIyr8m9OotW9LwbwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BX253%2BAir%2BConditioning%2BAC%2BSmell%2B6.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;">The image directly below is of car "A" (not a Mercedes) and highlighted is the free flowing stream of Klima Clean coming from the system drain.</span></div><div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EJPhfWOAc2M/YRbQ69kAUFI/AAAAAAAABGc/6EekADiqx2EMKtVIVeb3SeZ49UAf6vxXACLcBGAsYHQ/s1196/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BX253%2BAir%2BConditioning%2BAC%2BSmell%2B5.png" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="894" data-original-width="1196" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EJPhfWOAc2M/YRbQ69kAUFI/AAAAAAAABGc/6EekADiqx2EMKtVIVeb3SeZ49UAf6vxXACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h478/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BX253%2BAir%2BConditioning%2BAC%2BSmell%2B5.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">This is certainly a major problem and indicates that car "A"'s system completely emptied while the Mercedes GLC retained approximately 250ml of liquid. Yes, that will begin to stink if the car is allowed to sit for more than a day or two. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">Car "A" did have a drip pan underneath as it is 8 years old and I wanted to see if Klima Clean really removed grease, grime etc., which it did. For the GLC I simply allowed it to drain on the drive way, but observed the color/clarity of the fluid draining from the system. No alarming colored liquid exited either car.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-htoDP1zdJt0/YRbVKyReq9I/AAAAAAAABGs/1wH521vGhDQJVvtUGJo8yJQ5LZ22a0uVwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1162/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BX253%2BAir%2BConditioning%2BAC%2BSmell%2B7.png" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="870" data-original-width="1162" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-htoDP1zdJt0/YRbVKyReq9I/AAAAAAAABGs/1wH521vGhDQJVvtUGJo8yJQ5LZ22a0uVwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/Mercedes%2BGLC%2B300%2BX253%2BAir%2BConditioning%2BAC%2BSmell%2B7.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Image above shows Klima Clean after draining from HVAC in car "A"<br /></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">However, when the GLC was started and the air conditioning turned on "LO" (coldest) with full fan, you can see the Klima Clean began to flow out of the system in a steady stream. This indicates once again that water is being trapped in the system. The water is however forced out by air pressure once the system fan is turned on due to the fact that spray (not visible on video) was being forced from the drain tube sporadically. With car "A", very little dripped out once the car was running and the air on "LO" and fan on full. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='663' height='554' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyE0kuzJvxhEnAD3VDv5jwwxehxyX9HzNmARsK9IxonO2sYCNNIUACr2bqFP6XY2DT9qZt4cluiq_24EVbshw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">Both cars did drip condensation </span><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;">after about 2 minutes</span><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"> from having the doors open on the vehicles and the humidity at 68%. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">Once the water dripped clear on each car, I turned off the system and called it a day. </span><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;">When the system was turned off on each car, car "A" continued to drip at a fairly good rate, while the GLC 300 stopped within a few seconds of light dripping. </span><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;"> Both cars smelled fresh, especially the Mercedes GLC. We will see how long this lasts and I will report back. </span></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div><b style="caret-color: rgb(255, 164, 0); color: #ffa400; font-family: helvetica;">MY ADVICE</b></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: medium;">Knowing this, I will be turning my fan on high a few minutes before I arrive at home to hopefully blow out as much residual water as possible. The AC does not need to be on for this and potentially would be better if it were not since the system will continue to draw water from the air. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: times; font-size: large;">Just my two cents!</span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></div>Classic Mercedeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01126388566563927102noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4259686316093209821.post-45118824378846780822021-08-07T12:49:00.000-07:002021-08-07T12:49:31.685-07:00Mercedes R107 450SL Belt Check, Replace, Tension Adjust<p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">It's often very easy to ignore regular service items when owning a classic Mercedes-Benz. No reminders from the dealership, no milage reminder on the dash, etc. So it is important to be your own service advisor and make a schedule of everything you do and when it needs to be done next.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">With regard to to the R107, regular inspections such as checking the belts and replacing when needed is critical. </span></p><p><span style="color: #ffa400; font-family: helvetica;"><b>CHECKING THE BELTS</b></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">The Mercedes R107 450SL has 6 pulleys, one tensioner wheel, and 5 belts. </span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0P4KhqKelDc/YQ6oKjxVZ-I/AAAAAAAABE8/PsW3V12i1p8dGNGQM6-GP1sa3NTkjkxpgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1498/Mercedes%2B450SL%2BBelt%2BReplacement%2BCheck%2B1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1126" data-original-width="1498" height="482" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0P4KhqKelDc/YQ6oKjxVZ-I/AAAAAAAABE8/PsW3V12i1p8dGNGQM6-GP1sa3NTkjkxpgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h482/Mercedes%2B450SL%2BBelt%2BReplacement%2BCheck%2B1.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: helvetica;">1. Alternator (1 - 4) </span><span style="font-family: helvetica;">2. Smog Pump (2 - 4) </span><span style="font-family: helvetica;">3. Water Pump (3-4-7) </span><span style="font-family: helvetica;">4. Engine Crank Pulley </span><span style="font-family: helvetica;">5. Belt Tensioner </span><span style="font-family: helvetica;">6. AC Compressor (6-5-4) </span><span style="font-family: helvetica;">7. Power Steering (7-3-4).</span><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gqe5t0Ikin0/YQ6yWuwG4SI/AAAAAAAABFE/uALpvtqYoCEUGtIH1lnNW4Q8Id4_Rq_9gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1590/Mercedes%2B450SL%2BBelt%2BReplacement%2BCheck%2BTension%2B2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1188" data-original-width="1590" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gqe5t0Ikin0/YQ6yWuwG4SI/AAAAAAAABFE/uALpvtqYoCEUGtIH1lnNW4Q8Id4_Rq_9gCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h478/Mercedes%2B450SL%2BBelt%2BReplacement%2BCheck%2BTension%2B2.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><b><span style="color: #ffa400;">ALTERNATOR BELT - REMOVAL OR ADJUSTMENT</span></b></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span>Only loosen bolt enough to allow movement</span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZNCo3bt0z6I/YQ7IQZCGNjI/AAAAAAAABFM/J3fDt5dud704iZL6lZJvUncLGVkF8k9iQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1210/Mercedes%2B450SL%2BBelt%2BReplacement%2BCheck%2BTension%2B3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="908" data-original-width="1210" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZNCo3bt0z6I/YQ7IQZCGNjI/AAAAAAAABFM/J3fDt5dud704iZL6lZJvUncLGVkF8k9iQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/Mercedes%2B450SL%2BBelt%2BReplacement%2BCheck%2BTension%2B3.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p><b style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="color: #ffa400;">SMOG PUMP BELT - REMOVAL OR ADJUSTMENT</span></b></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Only loosen bolt enough to allow movement</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ojMTsPX7TO4/YQ7KqnTLL6I/AAAAAAAABFU/RpkuplypKvUMiywWBUev0DW4xwoiOzznACLcBGAsYHQ/s1158/Mercedes%2B450SL%2BBelt%2BReplacement%2BCheck%2BTension%2B4.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="868" data-original-width="1158" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ojMTsPX7TO4/YQ7KqnTLL6I/AAAAAAAABFU/RpkuplypKvUMiywWBUev0DW4xwoiOzznACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/Mercedes%2B450SL%2BBelt%2BReplacement%2BCheck%2BTension%2B4.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><b style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="color: #ffa400;">WATER PUMP & POWER STEERING BELT - REMOVAL OR ADJUSTMENT</span></b></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Only loosen bolt enough to allow movement. <b>NOTE:</b> The power steering unit also provides the tension adjustment for the water pump pulley.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o9TJWtl3kMk/YQ7L8ufJTtI/AAAAAAAABFc/enXDqlonVqgHLQzmeHpo8MkoTeN26WvjgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1112/Mercedes%2B450SL%2BBelt%2BReplacement%2BCheck%2BTension%2B5.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="834" data-original-width="1112" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o9TJWtl3kMk/YQ7L8ufJTtI/AAAAAAAABFc/enXDqlonVqgHLQzmeHpo8MkoTeN26WvjgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/Mercedes%2B450SL%2BBelt%2BReplacement%2BCheck%2BTension%2B5.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><b style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="color: #ffa400;">AC COMPRESSOR BELT - REMOVAL OR ADJUSTMENT</span></b></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Only loosen bolt on tensioner enough to allow movement.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dAay4uFttp0/YQ7OiwNmTOI/AAAAAAAABFk/_1sHJ38pPQorJq2Zx1jURb404rbxRcRBwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1148/Mercedes%2B450SL%2BBelt%2BReplacement%2BCheck%2BTension%2B6.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="854" data-original-width="1148" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dAay4uFttp0/YQ7OiwNmTOI/AAAAAAAABFk/_1sHJ38pPQorJq2Zx1jURb404rbxRcRBwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h476/Mercedes%2B450SL%2BBelt%2BReplacement%2BCheck%2BTension%2B6.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><b style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="color: #ffa400;">BELT INSTALLATION ORDER</span></b></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">When installing the belts, the following order must be used: Power steering to water pump to crank (X2), AC Compressor to tensioner to crank, Alternator to crank, Smog to crank. When one belt is beginning to show signs of wear, all belts should be changed. </span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VTWVyRWSR6o/YQ7XV-xWTsI/AAAAAAAABFs/oYxSZeh8LyIyEj0Va1frTiY_1j88gyvegCLcBGAsYHQ/s1558/Mercedes%2B450SL%2BBelt%2BReplacement%2BCheck%2BTension%2B7.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="636" data-original-width="1558" height="262" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VTWVyRWSR6o/YQ7XV-xWTsI/AAAAAAAABFs/oYxSZeh8LyIyEj0Va1frTiY_1j88gyvegCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h262/Mercedes%2B450SL%2BBelt%2BReplacement%2BCheck%2BTension%2B7.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KN8SaY3p0y0/YQ7Z19HfGCI/AAAAAAAABF0/napK_JUqcb8_V5OGQDq4w2oogt5TE29OgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1100/Mercedes%2B450SL%2BBelt%2BReplacement%2BCheck%2BTension%2B8.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="828" data-original-width="1100" height="482" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KN8SaY3p0y0/YQ7Z19HfGCI/AAAAAAAABF0/napK_JUqcb8_V5OGQDq4w2oogt5TE29OgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h482/Mercedes%2B450SL%2BBelt%2BReplacement%2BCheck%2BTension%2B8.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><b style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="color: #ffa400;">BELT TENSIONING</span></b></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Belt tensioning is critical for each of the components they are driving, so don't guess.Tension that is too loose will cause the belt to slide in the pulley grove causing damage to the belt and polishing of the pulley, in addition it will cause erratic operation of the component being driven, causing potential damage or safety issues. Subsequently belts that are too tight, will likely cause damage to the driven components by damaging the component's driveshaft and or damaging the components bearings. Every manufacturer provides specific belt tension for each model they produce. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">For the 1975 Mercedes-Benz 450SL the tension for each belt is 23kg or </span><span style="font-family: helvetica;">50lbs. </span><span style="font-family: helvetica;"> I use the Gates 91107 Krikit V-Belt Tension Gauge which is an inexpensive and quick way to do the job right.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xfs6aSLaKEw/YQ7dYK9dXVI/AAAAAAAABF8/71bWTzwH8ogBOXMIcvME2DLHuaqyCeuDwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1140/Mercedes%2B450SL%2BBelt%2BReplacement%2BCheck%2BTension%2B9.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="856" data-original-width="1140" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xfs6aSLaKEw/YQ7dYK9dXVI/AAAAAAAABF8/71bWTzwH8ogBOXMIcvME2DLHuaqyCeuDwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/Mercedes%2B450SL%2BBelt%2BReplacement%2BCheck%2BTension%2B9.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sZqzvffWie8/YQ7h_UiQ7GI/AAAAAAAABGE/H2vGnILeJs0XnsxSY0mNiyakX9Drrw8tgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1148/Mercedes%2B450SL%2BBelt%2BReplacement%2BCheck%2BTension%2B10%2B%2BGates%2BKrikit%2B91107.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="864" data-original-width="1148" height="482" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sZqzvffWie8/YQ7h_UiQ7GI/AAAAAAAABGE/H2vGnILeJs0XnsxSY0mNiyakX9Drrw8tgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h482/Mercedes%2B450SL%2BBelt%2BReplacement%2BCheck%2BTension%2B10%2B%2BGates%2BKrikit%2B91107.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>Classic Mercedeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01126388566563927102noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4259686316093209821.post-5790789862712130312021-06-07T13:39:00.005-07:002021-08-13T06:54:45.903-07:00 Mercedes Benz (X253) GLC 300 4Matic - A Modern Journey<p> <span style="font-family: verdana;">While this blog is primarily focused on classic Mercedes W123 and 107 models, I will be adding to this blog a late model Mercedes, specifically a 2018 X253 Mercedes GLC 300 Coupé, 4MATIC with the AMG package. The focus of this vehicle will be all about maintenance, keeping it detailed along with what products to use on what parts, overall durability and options that are worth the extra money.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4I92_NH9Dkw/YL6POr4JeDI/AAAAAAAAA-k/UtUefM_f8e4zy6GZzp6TZBAa2jFD4r_-ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1306/2018%2BMercedes%2BBenz%2BGLC%2B300%2B4MATIC%2BAMG.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="882" data-original-width="1306" height="432" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4I92_NH9Dkw/YL6POr4JeDI/AAAAAAAAA-k/UtUefM_f8e4zy6GZzp6TZBAa2jFD4r_-ACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h432/2018%2BMercedes%2BBenz%2BGLC%2B300%2B4MATIC%2BAMG.png" width="640" /></a></div><span style="font-family: verdana;"><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></p>So far, this Mercedes has been very good and the warranty items have been handled with exceptional professionalism by the dealer. There is one item I still have not dealt with which will be covered for as long as it takes to see it resolved. The item in question is a decorative metal trim on the gear selector lever which is loose and buzzes when traveling on rougher surfaced roads. Ironically I was just in a 2021 GLC 300 SUV service loaner that had the same trim that was buzzing on the way home!</span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;">All that aside, we will dig into this very fun to drive coupé from front to back coming up. Yes, more on the retro stuff as well. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;">Until next time... </span></p><p><br /></p>Classic Mercedeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01126388566563927102noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4259686316093209821.post-41730703261718774662021-01-28T14:32:00.001-08:002021-01-28T14:32:37.756-08:00Mercede-Benz Museum Virtual Tour<p><b><span style="font-size: large;"> <span style="font-family: helvetica;">A COVID SAFE TOUR OF THE MERCEDES-BENZ MUSEUM</span></span></b></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ra0Mv_sTVnI/YBMnz0J_UvI/AAAAAAAAA50/xXmVO9dhJVg3llTDLdEiUBk7PzROEPIpwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Mercedes%2BMuesum%2BStuttgart%2BGermany.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ra0Mv_sTVnI/YBMnz0J_UvI/AAAAAAAAA50/xXmVO9dhJVg3llTDLdEiUBk7PzROEPIpwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/Mercedes%2BMuesum%2BStuttgart%2BGermany.jpg" title="Mercedes Benz Museum Stuttgart Germany" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">Perhaps a virtual COVID free trip to Stuttgart, Germany will do some of us car enthusiasts good while we are bound to our homes. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;">This brief photographic tour of the Mercedes-Benz museum and headquarters located in Stuttgart, Germany is for any Mercedes enthusiast who has not had the opportunity to visit. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;">After many trips to Germany I finally visited the museum in 2019. I hope you enjoy your visit.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-36jnkh-R3xI/YBMpfvCT0eI/AAAAAAAAA6A/wLbzFq-EPwwcZaNFE07XnNZDtPBQzii3wCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Mercedes%2BBenz%2BMuseum.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-36jnkh-R3xI/YBMpfvCT0eI/AAAAAAAAA6A/wLbzFq-EPwwcZaNFE07XnNZDtPBQzii3wCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/Mercedes%2BBenz%2BMuseum.jpg" title="Mercedes Benz Museum Stuttgart Germany" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Tq5hsJmyATE/YBMqTerdo_I/AAAAAAAAA6I/njxkuMSeGPcb4z_JBq5zJmb7HVkH0ZoUgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Mercedes%2BMuseum%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Tq5hsJmyATE/YBMqTerdo_I/AAAAAAAAA6I/njxkuMSeGPcb4z_JBq5zJmb7HVkH0ZoUgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/Mercedes%2BMuseum%2B2.jpg" title="Mercedes Benz Museum Stuttgart Germany" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; 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text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--NShU6wGIsw/YBM1lIniIcI/AAAAAAAAA8Y/xKTV3OptbcADbZVNEM14mHnPOtgNdCFGgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Mercedes%2BMuseum%2BGermany%2B19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--NShU6wGIsw/YBM1lIniIcI/AAAAAAAAA8Y/xKTV3OptbcADbZVNEM14mHnPOtgNdCFGgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/Mercedes%2BMuseum%2BGermany%2B19.jpg" title="Mercedes Benz Museum Stuttgart Germany" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QUHOqCy9pCU/YBM2n8tstpI/AAAAAAAAA8k/zTEwl04r4s80duIpNpIWv2k7XMBoFQfAgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Mercedes%2BMuseum%2BGermany%2B20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QUHOqCy9pCU/YBM2n8tstpI/AAAAAAAAA8k/zTEwl04r4s80duIpNpIWv2k7XMBoFQfAgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/Mercedes%2BMuseum%2BGermany%2B20.jpg" title="Mercedes Benz Museum Stuttgart Germany" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-78SbwIWGmnE/YBM2xl3hq0I/AAAAAAAAA8o/zyE4-hN9RNEeuigfHPfPLhY3hrqioC-mgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Mercedes%2BMuseum%2BGermany%2B4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-78SbwIWGmnE/YBM2xl3hq0I/AAAAAAAAA8o/zyE4-hN9RNEeuigfHPfPLhY3hrqioC-mgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/Mercedes%2BMuseum%2BGermany%2B4.jpg" title="Mercedes Benz Museum Stuttgart Germany" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Classic Mercedeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01126388566563927102noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4259686316093209821.post-8792676634752179012021-01-25T16:20:00.003-08:002021-01-25T16:27:14.521-08:00W123 Diesel Buyers Guide | 240D | 300D | 300CD<p><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: x-large;">Find the Best Mercedes Diesel W123</span></p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-URClUwIu63s/YA9YsaiVtZI/AAAAAAAAA5Y/p6nwr4vddacmeLdB99zdPx09BZj6wMw_wCLcBGAsYHQ/s792/1981%2BMercedes%2BW123%2B240D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="370" data-original-width="792" height="299" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-URClUwIu63s/YA9YsaiVtZI/AAAAAAAAA5Y/p6nwr4vddacmeLdB99zdPx09BZj6wMw_wCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h299/1981%2BMercedes%2BW123%2B240D.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">A very pampered all original 1981 Mercedes Benz 240D with 207,000 miles</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">One of my readers asked what to look for when purchasing a higher mileage 240D. In this instance the car he was looking at had logged 200,000 miles. Is this still a good purchase? Let's dig and and find out.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">If you are in the market for a W123 Diesel there are several things you should know before you take the plunge. This article will focus strictly on sedans and coupé models of 4 and 5 cylinder models with and without turbo. The TD model will not be discussed here as they have their own unique issues that I am personally not familiar enough with to discuss.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">So just how do you find a worthy diesel W123? </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><b><br /></b></span></p><p><span style="color: #ffa400; font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;"><b>LET'S DISCUSS RUST</b></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">1. Depending on where the car has lived, I wouldn't even drive it or care to know if it even runs with out first thoroughly checking for rust.</span><span style="font-family: helvetica;"> </span><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Just because it is a Mercedes doesn't mean it can't suffer from sever corrosion issues.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">• If at all possible get it up on a lift and check all of the sills and wheel arches carefully. If it looks too new or clean I would do a lot more digging to find out if it was repaired or if damage was covered over. If you can't get it up on a lift, make sure you get on the ground and get the best view you can with a bright flashlight. Be sure to knock on the metal, poke, squeeze etc. all around. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">• Inspect the trunk. Ask to have the side plastic liners, and spare tires removed for your inspection. If the back window or trunk gasket has or is currently leaking you could have a disaster of rust on your hands to contend with. In addition check the gasket and the areas between the gasket and the fender and rear window. Gently tug on the gasket in numerous areas to make sure it still has a good seal. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">• Open the hood and check the hinge areas to make sure they are free of rust and that the drain holes are free from debris. If these areas get filled with debris, the water will not drain and cause considerable rust issues. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">• Should the car be equipped with a sunroof, make sure it functions well. Open it and inspect the gasket and for any rust around the perimeter of the seal and the roof portion itself. These sunroofs are prone to leak and rust. Check also the headliner for any potential water damage. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">• Check the lower corners of the rear window for rust</span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">• Lift the floor mats front and back and check for any rust from water accumulation. This can be caused by a car sitting outside with the windows left open or from windshield gasket damage or as simple as the car having been in a flood.</span></p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-peee2ilVwo0/YA9Va5qAxaI/AAAAAAAAA5M/0M1TjkaBxNwFOWWlH1tJ2MF8SYBDPj4fQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/240D%2Bengine.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1150" data-original-width="2048" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-peee2ilVwo0/YA9Va5qAxaI/AAAAAAAAA5M/0M1TjkaBxNwFOWWlH1tJ2MF8SYBDPj4fQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h360/240D%2Bengine.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">1981 Mercedes Benz 240D Engine Bay</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span><p></p><p><span style="color: #ffa400; font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;"><b>THE MECHANICS</b></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Mercedes built, in my opinion, the best 4 and 5 cyl. Diesel engines in existence today. Along with a stout, safe and beautiful body design, it is no doubt an icon of automotive history.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">As the owner of a 1981 240D with 207,000 miles, I would not think twice about hopping in my car for a trip across the U.S. I do however know this car very well, and have become intimately involved with the car and know exactly what has been done from front to back. With that, owning a W123 is great fun, but is most enjoyed when you can drive it like any other late model car in your garage. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">So, what to know, feel and listen for:</span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><b>STARTING</b></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">• When you visit the car for a test drive, request the car not be run for at least 24 hours before your arrival. While you may not fully know if this happened, make sure when you turn the key to heat the glow plugs, the temp gauge reads fully cold.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Starting from fully cold will indicate several things. For one, it will give you a good idea on compression and two it will tell you if the preheat system is in good working order. Should the temps be in the 70ºF plus degree range when starting the car from cold, the amber glow plug light on the dash should remain light for approximately 4-5 seconds. In the 40ºF - 50ºF range it should take approximately 6-8 seconds and at 32ºF about 9-12 seconds. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Under the conditions mentioned above, the car should start in the first 2-3 seconds max. It may be a few seconds longer at freezing and below. If you are testing a car in freezing and below, inquire if the car has had anti-gel mixed with the diesel in order for it to flow properly. If the anti-gel has not been added the diesel will be too thick to flow. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">If the system is in need of new glow plugs, other pre-heat components or has bad compression the car will likely crank for longer than normal. If the car cranks for longer than 3-5 seconds, turn the key back to the off "0" position and restart the pre-heat process again. Should the car start immediately after a second heating cycle, it will most likely indicate that the glow plugs are fowled from carbon or in need of replacement.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Should the car remain difficult to start, sputter etc., it could indicate the following: Clogged fuel tank filter, clogged primary and secondary fuel filter, injection pump timing, poor compression. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">• With a fully warm excellent condition engine, the car should start almost faster than you can let go of the key. Remember a fully warm Mercedes diesel, means it was not running for the past 15 or so minutes. These engines cool down rapidly and will require a pre-heat for maximum starting efficiency.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">• As soon as the engine starts, the oil pressure should indicate 3 bar </span><span style="font-family: helvetica;">within 3-4 seconds</span><span style="font-family: helvetica;">. Just as soon as you make sure that checks out, quickly get out and take a look at the color and amount of exhaust. Believe it or not, a well maintained engine should emit very little smoke which should be brownish black in color. Any blue or white should indicate more extensive engine testing be performed such as compression. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">When the engine is fully warm only a very little brownish black smoke should be seen when taking off from a stop and not be visible at all from the rearview mirror once up to speed. I would personally have someone follow me and give an account for how much smoke and color when the car is under load. Many mechanics will say "all these cars smoke a lot and always have" which is not quit true. They do smoke more than a gasoline engine but should not emit a black contrail in the wake of your departure.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">NOTE: If you have a 300D or 300CD turbo models, I would have that check out by a reputable mechanic who knows old Mercedes.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">The following videos show start up from cold (dashboard view), start up from warm (engine view), tail pipe emissions under load, </span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='622' height='518' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxuEqLce9HD__tkRqlh7zCab9QgCAleFFG_cISd2NxypNT3VnmhbQ3NCsdUyBXrdkndCPY6MjDyUKelW1szkQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><br /><p></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='626' height='520' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxLs8zwwAVAhjDi4ct4xAMG8crl1-m0f-Z3rFjVOLnxZjVp1AACCVV-6of7SUg06vC7lWUYpJasXRpDc5N-4g' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></span></div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /><b><br /></b></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='625' height='519' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwYifN1-pAd0QaKesvuyjQtw2uqEWhAxPQlbOmQoIlbjgUk6cOw_fwsrqMrbxK7Ek3cfWAjW57RYHDyOvhFSw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></span></div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /><b><br /></b></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><b>TURNING THE ENGINE OFF</b></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">After starting the engine turn it off after about 2 minute. The engine should stop immediately while giving the car a good shake. If the engine should hesitate to stop immediately there is most likely a vacuum leak somewhere in the system or the vacuum pump is not functioning properly. If the engine does not turn off with one solid shake, there is likely a compression issue. You should definitely feel the car jolt when the key is turned off. Should the engine not turn off at all once the ignition has been turned to the off position there is most likely a bad vacuum leak due to cracked hosing. Should this happen the engine can be stopped manually by way of a lever mounted at the backside of the valve cover. Yes, Mercedes built this feature in to the system for this very reason.</span></p><p></p><b style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></b><p></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><b>CHECKING FLUIDS</b></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">As with any car, check that the crank case has the proper amount of oil. Proper for these cars are mid-way between the low and full mark. Looking at the oil is probably pointless since even brand new oil turns black as soon as you run the engine. Oil should be changed every 3000 miles for the absolute best care.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">• Check the power steering fluid to make sure the fluid level is proper and the fluid is clean and does not smell burned. ATF is the proper fluid for this system. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">• Pull the radiator cap and look at the water. It should be either blue or green coolant in the system. Mercedes coolant is Blue and others are generally green. In addition smell the coolant to see if it has a metallic smell. If it does and the coolant is tinged brown or hazy the coolant is old. Coolant should be changed every 2-3 years. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">• Open the brake fluid reservoir and see what color the fluid is. It should be virtually clear. If it is darker it is probably old brake fluid which is hard on the braking components. Mercedes recommends break fluid to be changed every spring. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">• And finally check the transmission fluid to make sure it looks clean and pink and does not have a burned smell. Also be sure it is at the proper fluid level after the car has been driven for 15 min and the engine is fully warm. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #ffa400; font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;"><b>CHECK FOR LEAKS</b></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><b>FLUIDS</b></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">While many old cars leaked Mercedes made pretty drip free cars. Again don't let a mechanic tel you, "they all leak like that". The only way that is true is if they need seals and gaskets replaced. So, if you see drips everywhere know you will either have to live with the leaks or have them fixed. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">As these cars continue to age with higher milage, be sure to check for any leaks at the transmission. Once fluid begins to seep from the servo covers the transmission is more than likely in need of a rebuild or replacement. It is important to note, a rebuilt trans replacement is not that costly. There is a very reputable Mercedes transmission rebuilder who has excellent prices and a good warranty. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><b>INJECTORS</b></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Injectors should be dry and return hoses should be soft. If hoses are crispy they need to be replaced immediately. If the injectors are leaking at all they will need to be rebuilt. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><b>WATER PUMP</b></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">There should be no indication of corrosion around hosing and pump.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><b><br /></b></span></p><p><span style="color: #ffa400; font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;"><b>CHECK UNDER HOOD COMPONENTS</b></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--DtTOdANvHw/YA9eX_aeR5I/AAAAAAAAA5k/3PdcLFCN33sH7ZAgRAUwT35Zc_OMljdAgCLcBGAsYHQ/s648/Mercedes%2BW123%2B240D%2BFuel%2BInjection.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="486" data-original-width="648" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--DtTOdANvHw/YA9eX_aeR5I/AAAAAAAAA5k/3PdcLFCN33sH7ZAgRAUwT35Zc_OMljdAgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/Mercedes%2BW123%2B240D%2BFuel%2BInjection.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: helvetica;">W123 Mercedes diesel fuel injection system</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><b style="font-family: helvetica;">CHECK AIR FILTER</b></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Should be clean</span></p><p><b style="font-family: helvetica;">CHECK BELTS</b></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Should be tight and crack free</span></p><p><b style="font-family: helvetica;">BATTERY TRAY</b></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">The battery trays were notorious for rusting through. </span></p><p><b style="font-family: helvetica;">ENGINE MOUNTS</b></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">While the diesel motors do emit plenty of vibration it should not be unpleasant. Should the vibration be excessive, it may simply be the engine mounts that are bad. Due to the considerable wear and tare these mounts are subjected to, they will need replacing more frequently than that of a gasoline engine. I would only recommend Mercedes-Benz mounts as aftermarket brands have dismal results. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #ffa400; font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;"><b>OTHER COMPONENTS</b></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><b>LIGHTS</b></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">While inspecting the car, check to make sure all the lights work. Turn the headlight knob to the right once for marker lights, second click to the right for head lights, and while in the headlight mode pull the knob one click to activate the fog lights. The knob can be pulled out one more time should the car be equipped with rear fog lights but W123's destined for America did not have the rear fog light wired. After completing that check, turn the switch back to off and turn the knob left one turn and check to see that one side of the car from and back parking lights are light and the second turn to the left will turn on the opposite side front and back. These are used in Europe when parked overnight on the street.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Also, check reverse lights, number plate lights (X2), and interior trunk light</span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><b>MULTI FUNCTION STALK</b></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><b>WIPERS</b></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Check wipers. Please do not run the wipers dry on the windshield unless the owner says it is ok. you can always pull the wiper arms off the glass to the fully open poison and operate them. Running wipers dry can instantly leaves marks in the glass. The W123's had three wiper settings: Delay, slow and high speed. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: medium;"><b>TURN SIGNAL</b></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Standard operation for the turn signals. They do cancel however much later than many American cars of the day. They will cancel near the very and of your turn, but if set correctly will cancel only when the wheel has returned to almost straight ahead. Two large green arrows should flash on either side of the speedometer. Should the turn signal(s) flash rapidly either a bulb is burned out or the relay has failed. The relay for the turn signals is combined in the hazard switch button.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">HIGHBEAMS</span></b> </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">As with late model cars, pull the stalk toward you to flash lights and push forward to turn on high beams. A blue indicator light should light on the lower portion of the instrument cluster. </span></p><p><b style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: medium;">CRUISE CONTROL</span></b><span style="font-family: helvetica;"> </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">The cruise control is operated by both vacuum and electric components. If the the car has vacuum leaks the cruise control will not work. Know also that there is a good possibility that the cruise control module will not be working or working properly after all these years. Rebuilt units can be obtained for about $250 and is an easy installation. Before doing that however be sure it is not the vacuum portion of the cruise control that is mounted under the hood. Those are considerably more costly. Or, you can just forget the car has cruise control and remove it from the vacuum system. </span></p><p><b style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: medium;">HORN</span></b></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">The horn should sound from any location on the horn pad with a very light touch.</span></p><p><b style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: medium;">HVAC</span></b></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">A number of W123's were fitted with the Delco compressor that never worked properly even from day one. While you can still get rebuilt units they are all tragic units that will only deliver a short life span and plenty of leaks. There is an excellent retrofit available to do away with these problems. More on that in a future article. Since various years had different systems, do you research on which year you are looking at and what system it has to properly test it. </span></p><p><b style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: medium;">GEAR CHANGE LEVER</span></b></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">The gate shift lever should operate very smooth and with little effort. Any play in the lever may indicate a warn or broken bushing at the transmission. </span></p><p><b style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: medium;">HAZARD LIGHTS</span></b></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Test hazard light switch. If hazard lights do not work or work erratically, see turn signal section above.</span></p><p><b style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: medium;">IDLE CONTROL KNOB</span></b></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Located on the dash just under the left side of the instrument cluster, is, or should be a black plastic flat knob. This knob adjusts the idle for cold starting and can also be used to increase the idle a bit while using the A/C. This knob is manually linked by Bowden cable directly to the throttle linkage. Turning the knob to the left will increase your idle while the revers will lower it. This knob however should never be turned to the left (increasing the idle) without depressing the throttle peddle. Turning the knob with out depressing the throttle often results in breaking the knob. The idle can however be turned down with out depressing the throttle peddle.</span></p><p><b style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: medium;">WINDOW WINDERS OR POWER WINDOWS</span></b></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Test all power windows or window winders. The windows should operate smoothly and quietly in either case. Any binding during operation could be an indication of a future failure. </span></p><p><b style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: medium;">SUNROOF (If fitted)</span></b></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Make sure it has been well taken care of and there is no evidence of rust or leaks.</span></p><p><b style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: medium;">VENTS</span></b></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Check all HVAC vents that they can be opened and closed and otherwise adjusted as original.</span></p><p><b style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: medium;">DOOR LOCKS</span></b></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">There is a good chance that the vacuum system has leaks. If this is the case, the door locks ma not work along with the fuel filler door lock and trunk lock. If the system is leaking it may also make it difficult or impossible to turn the engine off with the ignition key. The central locking system however can disconnected from the main vacuum line and be plugged. The locks can then be operated manually. </span></p><p><b style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: medium;">DOORS/TRUNK</span></b></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Doors should shut and latch easily and open just the same. If the doors do not close and open with precision question if the car has been in an accident or restored. In addition check all gaskets for deterioration. </span></p><p><b style="font-family: helvetica;"><span style="font-size: medium;">HOOD</span></b></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">The hood should open and close with ease and the under hood insolation should be in place. If the insolation has been removed or is deteriorated, it should be replaced at once to avoid ruining the paint. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #ffa400; font-family: helvetica; font-size: large;"><b>CONCLUSION</b></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Other accessories the car may be equipped with should be looked at carefully along with careful attention to detail. Should you find a good specimen, you will have yourself a great, if not the best car on the road today. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Again, this is only a rough check list and not necessarily complete, so do your homework and feel free to reply with any questions. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></p>Classic Mercedeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01126388566563927102noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4259686316093209821.post-91510403992095110452019-10-07T16:31:00.000-07:002019-10-15T14:07:23.303-07:00Mercedes Steering Coupler / Rag Joint Replacement<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Excess play in the steering of your Mercedes-Benz might be an indication that the steering coupler or "rag joint" may need replacing. There are of course other factors that can cause loose or sloppy steering, but for the sake of this article we will only focus on the proper way to replace the steering coupler and do several other checks while doing the procedure.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The work in this case is being performed on a 1981 Mercedes 240D - W123 (2nd generation steering column) and is also very similar in procedure as the early R107 and W123 series as well. Differences between Early R107 and W123 vs. later models is the set up of the steering column. Other models may be similar, but I advise you refer to the shop manual for the specific model for verification.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Again, there is much misguided information online for doing this job, however this is a very straightforward process</span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> that is listed in the Mercedes worship manual and does not require removing the steering box and also allows you to go through the and clean the steering shaft, bearings, etc. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As you will see, this does not take incredible skill or time to perform. It should take no more than 1hr. to perform this service. I always recommend taking photos as you go!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Recommend parts for the job:</b> Mercedes-Benz steering coupler MB Part: 1234600210, two coupler bolts MB Part: 2029902101. I do not recommend reusing the original bolts. Steering column boot (at firewall) MB Part: 1234621396</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Optional Parts:</b> steering column bearing MB part: 1269810025, directly behind steering wheel. My bearing had been making noise and discovered it was full of dirt. This may be more of an issue due to the car having spent its entire existence in the desert. There is also another identical bearing at the opposite end of the steering column tube, but mind was not acting suspicious and so I just sprayed lube into the bearing area.Regardless, it may be a good time to re-lubricate it. I use Würth greases for hinges and fittings such as this along with the throttle linkage which should be lubricated yearly.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 1</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Disconnect Battery</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 2</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Remove driver side under dash covering. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Center wheels, this is not critical on removal but will have to be done on reassembly. Remove steering wheel emblem or horn pad, which ever is less destructive to the old materials. Always go gently and do not use a screwdriver. Only use plastic trim removal tools. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Remove steering wheel hex cap screw or nut and remove steering wheel. The hex bit socket should be 10mm. Always make sure the socket for either the nut or the screw the perfect fit and is fully stetted. <b>IMPORTANT: </b>Do Not use the steering wheel lock for the resistance needed to remove the steering wheel hex socket screw, or nut. Unlock the steering column by means of your key and be sure it is fully unlocked before proceeding. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Shown on W123 late model</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 5</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Remove rubber multi-stalk control boot at column. Gently pry off with plastic trim removal tool.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP</b> <b>6</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Unscrew multi-stalk controls from column in addition to the horn contacts (1 brown, 1 black wire)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Unplug turn signal stalk and cruise control (if equipped) from underside of dash to left of steering column.</span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ey_EVlyzEWQ/XZu7Z_d89HI/AAAAAAAAA0M/0WrbScKwZigqVQ1rkDzzmyjC_Dn893hrQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Mercedes%2BW123%2BCruise%2BControl%2Bplug.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1078" data-original-width="1438" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ey_EVlyzEWQ/XZu7Z_d89HI/AAAAAAAAA0M/0WrbScKwZigqVQ1rkDzzmyjC_Dn893hrQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Mercedes%2BW123%2BCruise%2BControl%2Bplug.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 8</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Gently work wires and plugs through steering column. While it all looks like too much to come through, it will, but it's a snug fit. Don't yank as you can break solder connections in plug. Once the unit has been removed from the steering column notice the exact position of the steering shaft. The steering shaft is in the correct position when the shaft locks into position with the key out of the ignition. <b>THIS STEP IS IMPORTANT</b> for reassembly to ensure the steering wheel locks when car is parked and to ensure turn signal will cancel and remain on at the proper times. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 9</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Remove decretive column cover. This step is not necessary, but since I was in it this far I decided to remove two screws and detach the short plastic column cover for cleaning. You will however need to remove snap ring around steering shaft. </span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Cx8C7W1bqV8/XZvBcTuYLAI/AAAAAAAAA08/aPxhoyOsBbEHwZGkBxYTPDFjPvI06GungCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Mercedes%2BW123%2BSteering%2BColumn%2B1.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1078" data-original-width="1430" height="482" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Cx8C7W1bqV8/XZvBcTuYLAI/AAAAAAAAA08/aPxhoyOsBbEHwZGkBxYTPDFjPvI06GungCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Mercedes%2BW123%2BSteering%2BColumn%2B1.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 10</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Put steering wheel back on shaft, but do not bolt on. Open the hood to access the steering coupler (rag joint).</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 11</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The two hex cap screws are located adjacent to each other with the two screws facing opposite directions. This will require the steering wheel to be turned slightly to access both screws. Again, DO NOT strip these hex socket screws. If the car has lived in a humid/winter environment soak liberally with PB blaster or similar 3-4 hours prior to removing. It is strongly advised to use air impact tools for removal to reduce the chance of stripping the head.</span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HmXwhdemB9c/XZvABeRWOvI/AAAAAAAAA0w/MdPSCOyZwO4EegnoXrycpXZgUivCdEGkwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Mercedes%2BW123%2BSteering%2BCoupler%2BRag%2BJoint.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1078" data-original-width="1438" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HmXwhdemB9c/XZvABeRWOvI/AAAAAAAAA0w/MdPSCOyZwO4EegnoXrycpXZgUivCdEGkwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Mercedes%2BW123%2BSteering%2BCoupler%2BRag%2BJoint.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 12</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Return to inside of car and undo hex socket screw from the second coupler under the dash. The steering wheel may need to be rotated a bit to access the screw. Once the screw is accessible, remove using a socket wrench. This one is not going to be seized unless it has gotten wet. Once removed, turn the steering wheel a few inches left and right to loosen the interior coupling. </span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rjNSgjwxwXU/XZvCG0hIQiI/AAAAAAAAA1E/F_AtYI2k11oA5aurcsLrm9GdlT43CZZAACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Mercedes%2BW123%2BSteering%2BColumn%2BLower.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1436" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rjNSgjwxwXU/XZvCG0hIQiI/AAAAAAAAA1E/F_AtYI2k11oA5aurcsLrm9GdlT43CZZAACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Mercedes%2BW123%2BSteering%2BColumn%2BLower.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 13</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Remove steering wheel.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 14</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">From inside of car, remove steering column boot and press toward the engine bay. More than likely this boot will be very dry rotted and will need replacing. The part is available from Mercedes-Benz. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 15</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">At this time you will also jack up the front of the car and place jack stands at the proper jack points. Remove driver side wheel and remove the three bolts holding the steering box to the fender. NOTE: I found this to work best with two people to make sure the steering box did not shift to suddenly. The steering box will sit in place once released. To make room to easily remove the steering coupler, simply move the steering box toward the front fo the car about 1-2 in. or 2.54 - 5.08cm. You will need someone to also help you bolt the steering box back into position once the new coupler has been installed.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 16</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">With a suitable long handled flat end pry bar, loosen steering coupling by gently pressing toward firewall. Once the coupler is mostly released from the splined steering box shaft, you may need to return to the side of the car to gently wiggle the crush tube portion of the steering column away from the main steering shaft. I discovered a few back and forth trips, between wiggling the coupler and the crush tube loosened it up and the coupler and the crush tube easily separated. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP </b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">At this point you are ready to install your new coupler, boot, and screws. IMPORTANT: When fitting the new coupler, it is critical that the steering shaft be properly aligned as described in <b>STEP 8. </b>In addition, the wheels need to be manually adjusted to straight ahead, or your steering will be off center. DO NOT, compensate adjusting your steering wheel installation for not having your wheels in the proper position. Steering coupler screws should be torqued to 25Nm. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Don't forget to put your new boot on before you affix the coupler.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 18</b></span><br />
<b style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: red;">MAKE SURE EVERY NUT, BOLT, SCREW AND SNAP RING IS PROPERLY FITTED!</span> </b><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Take a test drive on side streets making plenty of turns etc. before going out on the highway. Check and recheck your work. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Optional Bearing Change</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">If you wish to change out the nearside steering shaft bearing it is indicated in the photo below.</span><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qjeqPYtHUW0/XZvH5q4q9GI/AAAAAAAAA1k/yeAF_b0n9woeIS7Bo-GOB8phcHKTQh9qQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Mercedes%2BW123%2BSteering%2BColumn%2BBearing%2B1.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1084" data-original-width="1434" height="482" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qjeqPYtHUW0/XZvH5q4q9GI/AAAAAAAAA1k/yeAF_b0n9woeIS7Bo-GOB8phcHKTQh9qQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Mercedes%2BW123%2BSteering%2BColumn%2BBearing%2B1.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Gently tap bearing out evenly all the way around. It will require separating the bearing from the housing with a fine screw driver you are willing too dull. It will take a minute or two of some determined tapping, not beating. When the bearing has been removed install new bearing with even taps around entire circumference as to not insert at any angle. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>Classic Mercedeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01126388566563927102noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4259686316093209821.post-85394796838632099642019-09-12T07:06:00.001-07:002021-01-27T07:40:57.132-08:00W123 Mercedes CV Boots and Axles<span style="font-family: helvetica;"><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Cracked CV boots are nothing new, but replacing them can be costly, and the axles might not warrant the time or money if the milage is high enough or the boots have cracked. Reconditioning an axle in uncertain condition will likely not serve you well in the long run and could easily lead you to spend even more money having to install new axles in the end. Instead, consider replacing the axles. Wait! It's not as hard as it sounds!</span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Mercedes-Benz used two types of axles, homokinetic and annular. According to Mercedes, the W123 could have either axle depending on the year it was built so make sure you check your vin and the axle itself before you make a purchase. Regardless, if you are in need of new CV boots with original high milage axles, this would be the time to move ahead with replacing the entire unit. If your chassis is already fitted with annular, the job will be that much simpler. </span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>So what's the difference? What's better? Why convert? Who cares?</b></span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">The difference between homokinetic and annular is how it functions, and that is a subject we will not cover here, but we will cover how they differ with regard to installation.</span><br />
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<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">The following image shows the Mercedes-Benz OE annular axle along side the aftermarket axle that is a cross between an annular and a homokinetic based on the one piece design. The Mercedes axle as you can see requires a "flange" sitting separate from the axle which will be permanently installed in the differential making for a much simpler repair or replacement in the future.</span></span><br />
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<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">At this <span style="font-family: helvetica;">point you have several options for this job. First, you can purchase a rear axle flange (needed for conversion from homokinetic to annular) and annular axle from Mercedes. Second option, purchase an aftermarket or refurbished homokinetic unit. Third option, install an aftermarket unit.</span></span><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><b>Is one better than another?</b> If you are purchasing MB annular axles (homokinetic is no longer made by Mercedes), you are getting an excellent product, the same quality that has probably lasted 40 plus years. Should you go the direction of aftermarket or rebuilt, you run a good risk of noise, vibration and a much shorter life span.</span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">After much research, I purchased what I believed to be the best aftermarket axle on the market, and unfortunately had my slight bubble of hope burst by what I saw, felt and heard. In fairness, it didn't appear all bad, but nothing I would want on my car. Ultimately I wanted to see if a $160 aftermarket axle could by chance prove good enough, and sadly it did not. Most often the old adage holds true, "you get what you pay for".</span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">In brief, the new aftermarket axle right out of the box had a tremendous amount of play in each joint, along with internal components that already clicked and clacked against each other while being pivoted by hand. The original Mercedes axle however, was nearly impossible to move by hand, and no internals could be heard contacting each other what so ever. Several other observations with the aftermarket: the boots were manufactured of substantially thinner rubber, and one of the boots was not installed neatly. In addition the shaft was substantially thicker than the MB unit leading me to believe they have used an inferior steel and need the extra diameter for structural integrity. There were also numerous other areas that lacked the detailing where seals were to seat etc. </span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">These multiple deficiencies did not build my confidence in the product as a whole and further more I did not want to risk introducing a potentially inferior component into a differential that I know is in immaculate condition. </span><br />
<span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><br /></span><span face=""helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">On the flip side, no matter which direction you decide to go, installing either axle style is not difficult, but requires more work to change out the homokinetic / aftermarket style should the time come again. As stated previously, the annular is very straight forward after the MB flange is fitted. </span><br />
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<span face="helvetica neue, arial, helvetica, sans-serif"><b><span style="color: orange; font-size: large;">Coming Up:</span></b> Step-by-Step removal and installation of the rear axles.</span></span>Classic Mercedeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01126388566563927102noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4259686316093209821.post-1617456803079684002019-09-08T17:37:00.002-07:002021-08-15T08:04:34.083-07:00Retro W123 Mercedes Factory Window Sticker, Booklets<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It's not often that one gets to purchase a car with most all of the original paper work, manuals, etc. I was grateful to have had the opportunity to acquire my 1981 Mercedes 240D from the original owners of 34 years who not only kept the car in near perfect condition, but included most all the original near perfect documentation from the factory.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Liking automotive history and the stories that go along with cars got me thinking that as younger generations begin to collect cars, many might not have access to some of the original factory pieces. In as much, many old enough to have known these cars from the beginning may have all but forgotten just how it was.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The following I compiled as both a historical perspective, and for some a journey down memory lane. You will see the original books (and page examples in the books) manuals, inserts and factory invoice (window sticker), and the touch-up paint that came with my 1981 240D. From what I have been told, the only piece that is missing is the service log booklet.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1382" data-original-width="1126" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eRg1o7d8TBM/XXPxfohZVGI/AAAAAAAAAsw/7yoMRppI1BYYy4uQLksvWOKbtbgmgSs4QCEwYBhgL/s640/1981%2BMercedes-Benz%2B240D%2BFactory%2BWindow%2BSticker.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="520" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">Manufacturer invoice "window sticker"</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">This would also have been on the window adjacent to the above window sticker</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 12.800000190734863px;">Original envelope mailed June 16, 1981 to owners after purchase from Mercedes-Benz U.S.A. in New Jersey. The following 8 documents were in this envelope. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">Document 1 from envelope</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">Document 1 example of inside pages</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UKFo1BmmVxc/XXUROYBbKpI/AAAAAAAAAuA/rmTe745JBYcHMLB8OwkHXlK2gAk694jiwCLcBGAs/s1600/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B5.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UKFo1BmmVxc/XXUROYBbKpI/AAAAAAAAAuA/rmTe745JBYcHMLB8OwkHXlK2gAk694jiwCLcBGAs/s640/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B5.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">Document 2 from envelope</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">Document 2 example of inside pages</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PHQ_YOfQWcU/XXUaF3QWSJI/AAAAAAAAAu8/waOlTw__0ZMF9LgfI9HzuL_n_F-ndrn-wCLcBGAs/s1600/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B10.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PHQ_YOfQWcU/XXUaF3QWSJI/AAAAAAAAAu8/waOlTw__0ZMF9LgfI9HzuL_n_F-ndrn-wCLcBGAs/s640/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B10.png" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">Document 3 from envelope</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-msMiz2_dyXY/XXUnbahJ_MI/AAAAAAAAAvk/74kaow9SjQ8erREicwmOiQthsHB6nQH4QCLcBGAs/s1600/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B13.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="868" data-original-width="1600" height="346" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-msMiz2_dyXY/XXUnbahJ_MI/AAAAAAAAAvk/74kaow9SjQ8erREicwmOiQthsHB6nQH4QCLcBGAs/s640/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B13.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">Document 4 from envelope</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kAETYSsbYUM/XXUnu9U-zmI/AAAAAAAAAvs/XjIFtOmrOz0Or6_znNAd2dATrr357KIoACLcBGAs/s1600/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B12.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="817" data-original-width="1600" height="326" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kAETYSsbYUM/XXUnu9U-zmI/AAAAAAAAAvs/XjIFtOmrOz0Or6_znNAd2dATrr357KIoACLcBGAs/s640/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B12.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">Backside of document 4 above</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eSbOHutxPJ8/XXUoZ_Zz3gI/AAAAAAAAAv0/8W4oFXBFJqgSReTzifxjP41kN9Yqfc30ACLcBGAs/s1600/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B14.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="803" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eSbOHutxPJ8/XXUoZ_Zz3gI/AAAAAAAAAv0/8W4oFXBFJqgSReTzifxjP41kN9Yqfc30ACLcBGAs/s640/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B14.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">Document 5 from envelope</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RPgQPK6xXZo/XXWR84sCt_I/AAAAAAAAAxY/XtvPR8J1dlw0AzGYCmb3uJ7QYwiWQkvYgCEwYBhgL/s1600/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B22.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="455" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RPgQPK6xXZo/XXWR84sCt_I/AAAAAAAAAxY/XtvPR8J1dlw0AzGYCmb3uJ7QYwiWQkvYgCEwYBhgL/s640/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B22.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">Document 5 example of inside pages</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b6tF_HUGxlY/XXUpCu27_2I/AAAAAAAAAwA/0OZ9dCPF6AU0zsgCztXCGPU46HMR1-bAgCLcBGAs/s1600/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B15.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="850" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b6tF_HUGxlY/XXUpCu27_2I/AAAAAAAAAwA/0OZ9dCPF6AU0zsgCztXCGPU46HMR1-bAgCLcBGAs/s640/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B15.png" width="340" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">Document 6 from envelope</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xckTw581qJw/XXP80wr40zI/AAAAAAAAAtE/2ZIXHFQMiOUk8umh8WYn0nMGqQEv3nYCwCEwYBhgL/s1600/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xckTw581qJw/XXP80wr40zI/AAAAAAAAAtE/2ZIXHFQMiOUk8umh8WYn0nMGqQEv3nYCwCEwYBhgL/s640/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B1.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">Document 7 from envelope</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IkktVfauQFU/XXP_fIaIBDI/AAAAAAAAAtQ/XX2_MtgUFxIXpkWQQmcvv2lAK4akHGkIgCEwYBhgL/s1600/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IkktVfauQFU/XXP_fIaIBDI/AAAAAAAAAtQ/XX2_MtgUFxIXpkWQQmcvv2lAK4akHGkIgCEwYBhgL/s640/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B2.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">Document 8 from envelope</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LOYiv4Zoh4g/XXWVVdI-O3I/AAAAAAAAAxw/HQDfIT55ooQDx_PoTsTsq98HtjX0LRO0QCEwYBhgL/s1600/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B24.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1573" data-original-width="1600" height="628" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LOYiv4Zoh4g/XXWVVdI-O3I/AAAAAAAAAxw/HQDfIT55ooQDx_PoTsTsq98HtjX0LRO0QCEwYBhgL/s640/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B24.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">Owner's Manual and other glovebox documents that came with car at time of purchase</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6voi-34uSjk/XXUqSKro2wI/AAAAAAAAAwQ/TX1Lo5uehbYLY-z_psKED45BSH2pqg7pwCEwYBhgL/s1600/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B16.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1132" data-original-width="1600" height="452" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6voi-34uSjk/XXUqSKro2wI/AAAAAAAAAwQ/TX1Lo5uehbYLY-z_psKED45BSH2pqg7pwCEwYBhgL/s640/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B16.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: 12.800000190734863px;">1981 240D, 300D, 300CD Mercedes-Benz owner's manual</span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Vd-zjmdzNRE/XXWOX5ndxiI/AAAAAAAAAxE/qc3FgiEqSsIewFYtuv1CxosRbkCENVB5QCLcBGAs/s1600/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B20.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="624" data-original-width="1600" height="248" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Vd-zjmdzNRE/XXWOX5ndxiI/AAAAAAAAAxE/qc3FgiEqSsIewFYtuv1CxosRbkCENVB5QCLcBGAs/s640/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B20.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">1981<span style="text-align: left;"> 240D, 300D, 300CD Mercedes-Benz owner's</span> manual inside pages</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-54mZI2CriIg/XXWEoLL1JbI/AAAAAAAAAwg/uaHCbmITpJIE3d1pkMmNDnRtSB7wTqFhQCLcBGAs/s1600/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B17.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1114" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-54mZI2CriIg/XXWEoLL1JbI/AAAAAAAAAwg/uaHCbmITpJIE3d1pkMmNDnRtSB7wTqFhQCLcBGAs/s640/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B17.png" width="445" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">1981 Mercedes U.S.A. diesel fuel guide dealer location booklet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ul0E6FDjEuk/XXWQ-KzFtxI/AAAAAAAAAxQ/IQROjYFgxlEYSFQo59hq4_HljsDNBjH0gCLcBGAs/s1600/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B21.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="1600" height="512" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ul0E6FDjEuk/XXWQ-KzFtxI/AAAAAAAAAxQ/IQROjYFgxlEYSFQo59hq4_HljsDNBjH0gCLcBGAs/s640/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B21.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">1981 Mercedes U.S.A. diesel fuel guide booklet inside pages</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rdblHEKBjKQ/XXUT5g6mAKI/AAAAAAAAAuc/YfkHy_AQGVMWh333eTcjpFK_mo2e1ciMACEwYBhgL/s1600/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B7.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rdblHEKBjKQ/XXUT5g6mAKI/AAAAAAAAAuc/YfkHy_AQGVMWh333eTcjpFK_mo2e1ciMACEwYBhgL/s640/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B7.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">1981 Mercedes North America FM Stereo Radio usage booklet</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gyTyVCrsPZs/XXUW4eltLyI/AAAAAAAAAuo/wETfXadGkQQgfCvd4ggklSJ8LxDLqw_-wCEwYBhgL/s1600/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B8.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="574" data-original-width="1600" height="228" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gyTyVCrsPZs/XXUW4eltLyI/AAAAAAAAAuo/wETfXadGkQQgfCvd4ggklSJ8LxDLqw_-wCEwYBhgL/s640/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B8.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">1981 Mercedes North America FM Stereo Radio usage booklet inside pages</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-itKtMrC0fNg/XXUYmVRp8AI/AAAAAAAAAu0/OqoK3UAQc9QfRklvAW-vpJSbrHPEdUEJACEwYBhgL/s1600/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B9.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-itKtMrC0fNg/XXUYmVRp8AI/AAAAAAAAAu0/OqoK3UAQc9QfRklvAW-vpJSbrHPEdUEJACEwYBhgL/s640/Mercedes%2B240D%2Bdrivers%2Bmanual%2B9.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">This 1981 Mercedes Consumer Information booklet is applicable to the 240D as well and was required by U.S.A. Federal law on stopping abilities etc. It appears Mercedes was able to use this with all W123 models as the information was applicable throughout the model range</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">This 1981 Mercedes Consumer Information booklet inside pages</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 12.800000190734863px;">Hang tag on cruise control stalk still complete with original string</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">Tire information card. This was found under the original spare tire from 1981</td></tr>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OtUf3af_zqs/XXpq-SXEtPI/AAAAAAAAAy0/lfcWWDZo3ksGm-6W6iRca-f09LE6OSvCgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Mercedes-Benz%2BPre-Delivery%2BInspection%2Bsticker%2Bfrom%2B1981.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="504" data-original-width="1168" height="172" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OtUf3af_zqs/XXpq-SXEtPI/AAAAAAAAAy0/lfcWWDZo3ksGm-6W6iRca-f09LE6OSvCgCLcBGAsYHQ/s400/Mercedes-Benz%2BPre-Delivery%2BInspection%2Bsticker%2Bfrom%2B1981.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">This sticker is located on the inside of trunk lid</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Touch-up paint</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hUUhEjDfnsk/XXqSqfbVwAI/AAAAAAAAAzA/SZkvge15upsbu2alDH5h4zfMBNgVvJENQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Norman%2BScott%2BDealership%2BHouston%252C%2BTX.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="671" data-original-width="1600" height="268" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hUUhEjDfnsk/XXqSqfbVwAI/AAAAAAAAAzA/SZkvge15upsbu2alDH5h4zfMBNgVvJENQCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Norman%2BScott%2BDealership%2BHouston%252C%2BTX.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">This is a photo of the Norman Scott, Inc. Houston, TX dealership where my W123 was purchased. Image appears to be from the 70's. From this photo the dealer did not sell Mercedes-Benz at the time, and evidently did not sell Mercedes for very long. Research shows that Norman Scott, Inc. primarily sold Porsche and Audi for most of its existence along with several other dealerships that sold other marques. </td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>Classic Mercedeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01126388566563927102noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4259686316093209821.post-74702290362890132172019-07-27T17:22:00.001-07:002019-07-27T17:22:59.852-07:00Easy Mandatory Maintenance on your W123<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Keeping your Mercedes W123 diesel in great working order is quite easy, and if you follow the simple directions prescribed by Mercedes it will last you a life time.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The 240D and 300D series with the 4 cyl. and 5 cyl. respectively are nearly identical in their maintenance requirements. This article focuses specifically on the 240D.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Side Note:</b> As I have mentioned several times in the past, there are so many blogs and forums that are littered with pages and pages of guessing on how to repair, check, and maintain these cars. Again, there is no guessing game involved, in fact there is really no need for this or any blog/forum if everyone would refer back to the manufacturers specifications. That said, I know it is helpful for those who are new to the classic car arena and wanting to get started on the right foot, or for those who started on the left foot and now wish to start doing it correctly.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Back to the topic at hand. As the cars age and some or many original components are still chugging along, I recommend that things be checked more frequently than prescribed as a matter of habit to avoid any unnecessary failures or destruction.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The following diagram although very rudimentary for some, is what I recommend at every oil change other than "L" which should be checked at every fill up. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">These items are not in order of importance and not all are items you will be changing at every oil change, rather these are things you should take a good look at for leaks, levels, color, smell and lubrication. Always follow the specific change intervals that Mercedes recommends! Again this is for a W123 diesel.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">All change intervals are per Mercedes-Benz. I personally recommend using all Mercedes-Benz fluids and filters other than motor oil. Mercedes does not recommend using synthetics in older cars. I use BlueChem additives where appropriate. Würth grease is an excellent all purpose grease for door hinges, sun roofs, throttle linkage, etc.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>A:</b> Air Filter - Make sure filter is clean and replace at max. 10K miles or 1 year. If you live in a very dry climate the filter may need to be changed more frequently. <b>B:</b> Fuel Filter (secondary) - Make sure there are no leaks and change every 25K miles or 3 years. <b>C:</b> Fuel Filter (primary) - Make sure there are no leaks and change every 25K miles or 3 years, <b>D:</b> Ball Joint throttle linkage - check grease at every oil change and lubricate as needed. <b>E:</b> Fuel Injectors - Check for leaks. I recommend using one can of BlueChem diesel common rail injector cleaner to a full tank of fuel at every oil change. <b>F:</b> Fuel Injection hosing - check all fuel injection hosing and clamps for tightness and leaks. <b>G:</b> Vacuum Connections - check for cracks in rubber connections or brittle plastic colored lines. <b>H:</b> Break Fluid - Check level and change every year, <b>I:</b> Coolant - Change at intervals of 25K miles or no longer than 3 years making sure it is full to mark with a proper mixture for your climate. <b>J:</b> Power Steering Fluid - Check hoses for leaks, make sure reservoir is to fill mark, check color to make sure it is not turning dark and replace at 50K miles. <b>K:</b> Transmission Fluid - change fluid and filter every 25K miles or 3 years and check when car has been driven at least 15 min., is in neutral (with someone in the car holding the brake) and checking the color to make sure it is not darkening. <b> L:</b> Oil - check at every fuel fill up and do oil change every 3K miles or 6 months. I personally use Rotella and BlueChem Oil Treatment at each change along with an M-B filter. <b>Not Pictured:</b> <b>Hoses</b> - Check at every oil change for cracks or stiffening - Replace every 50K or 5 years. <b>Belts</b> check for cracking. <b>Differential Fluid</b> - Check at every oil change and replace at 25K miles or 3 years. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Don't forget the other unseen parts that need attention as well:<b> </b><b>Fuel Tank Filter</b>, to be checked every 50K miles unless you notice a loss of power or know you have tanked up with bad fuel. <b>Thermostat</b> - Change at 50K miles or 5 years. If you notice your temp gauge is creeping up higher than normal, change the thermostat. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Perhaps some at this point in the read are rolling your eyes and muttering, "that's ridiculous, I'll know when it needs replacing, it'll leak on the driveway, start smoking, and won't have any power, and that's the time to take care of it!" Well, that certainly is an option, but not if you are serious about saving money, time, frustration and the car. Good thing about the W123 diesel, if you take care of it as directed, it will purr like a kitten and last a couple of generations with no problems.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">By checking and maintaining these items at each oil change, you will be hard pressed to experience any roadside difficulties and you will have a car that most will be envious of.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>Classic Mercedeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01126388566563927102noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4259686316093209821.post-50578210657103935022019-07-25T13:23:00.002-07:002019-07-25T15:20:08.136-07:001975 Mercedes R107 Restoration Complete!<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A long time coming, but it's finally finished. On June 15, 2016 a very neglected but 98% rust free 1975 Mercedes-Benz 450SL stood in my way and begged to be purchased. There was no way I could turn it down for the asking price of $500 and the rest is history.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I was told it had been sitting for at least 4 years at its present location and rumor had it that it sat an additional 5 years prior to that, but how bad could it be for $500. If nothing else I could part it out and recoup at least what I put into it. Well, that was 2016 and now it's 2019, and that pathetic SL is back in its glory days.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">While the car has been nearly complete for about 6 months now, there are still a few minor pieces that are in the works to get it right. This process has been good for me as it has tried my patience on more than a few occasions, but that's what restoring something does for us!</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The day I found it.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OU9Gy02mpxQ/XTSPtD60PdI/AAAAAAAAAqc/RM-Y6n62Xe4cqaToZwMurqhYrWsD2kcXQCEwYBhgL/s1600/450SL%2BInterior%2BBefore.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="600" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OU9Gy02mpxQ/XTSPtD60PdI/AAAAAAAAAqc/RM-Y6n62Xe4cqaToZwMurqhYrWsD2kcXQCEwYBhgL/s640/450SL%2BInterior%2BBefore.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After it got home and I began the process of removing the crispy lambswool seat covers and copious amounts of trash.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2lVFFCgRABc/XTSSINacPZI/AAAAAAAAAqk/qNVciCwRzUY3UUuyZE0UEJsJiAvzyEPmACLcBGAs/s1600/450SL%2BInterior%2BRestoration.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="437" data-original-width="600" height="466" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2lVFFCgRABc/XTSSINacPZI/AAAAAAAAAqk/qNVciCwRzUY3UUuyZE0UEJsJiAvzyEPmACLcBGAs/s640/450SL%2BInterior%2BRestoration.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The end result. The dash, steering wheel and console are original that I restored and recolored.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">While the car was a mess, I noted that nothing of importance was missing or destroyed. My goal was to keep and restore as many original parts as possible and that ended up working out in the end. As you can see, the car originally came from the factory with a navy interior, which matched the 904 navy exterior along with a navy convertible top, yikes! For a car like this, that was entirely too much navy, at least for me, and 1970's or not, I still would not have bought into that monotone madness. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">So it was off to the Mercedes-Benz Classic Center in Irvine, California to find out what my color options would have been in 1975, and the news was good. Did I wan't to change the original exterior color? No. The interior was all that needed to set the monotony apart as I liked the MB 904 very dark blue, almost a blue/black. The interior color palette was not extensive but a lot better than what it was. My 1975 interior color options: black, blue, parchment, tobacco, red and bamboo. The winner: tobacco. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Next was the top and carpet. From what I was told, the top color options that were directly available from the factory were black, blue, wheat and brown and the loop carpeting was available in palomino, cognac, charcoal, bamboo, black, blue, beige, red, brown and gray. The winner: Brown, which is a speckle of lighter and darker brown in the loop. The top was the last item to throw in the mix and it was a tough battle with everyone weighing in on what would look best. Blue was the major consensus and that just didn't seem to create the delineation needed to bring this alluring car to its prime. The winner: Brown</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">While the car doesn't appear too neglected in the photo the day I found it, it had been painted white, from the original blue, and the job was so bad I think it would be an insult to say Maaco did it. Regardless, the car was stripped to metal and properly painted.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The entirety of the 450SL went through a deep clean including the engine that was home to a family of Packrats among other critters. Thankfully they only chewed some of the vacuum hose, but no wiring thankfully.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The following are snapshots of the restoration through time.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The day I found the car and purchased it. The car was then taken to my home where we got it running and checked out the necessary items to make sure it was worthy of a restoration, and indeed it was. The rims on the car at this point were the knock off chrome Ronal rims that were pealing and badly pitted, and they went to a junkyard. Original 14in. Mercedes wheels were fitted. I found out from Mercedes the car original came with hubcaps.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The car being taken from my home to the restoration shop fitted with proper Mercedes rims and the last of the production 14in Michelin tires.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">At the shop getting stripped, Bondo'd and prepped for primer.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Primed, masked and in the paint booth ready for paint.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mVgH8oyVhEo/XTn_mj8DDHI/AAAAAAAAAro/vXkWuTPmEc0yPRhY9FLAXAY4l8wB8KJOACEwYBhgL/s1600/1975%2BMercedes%2B450SL%2B6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="600" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mVgH8oyVhEo/XTn_mj8DDHI/AAAAAAAAAro/vXkWuTPmEc0yPRhY9FLAXAY4l8wB8KJOACEwYBhgL/s640/1975%2BMercedes%2B450SL%2B6.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">My paint guy mixing the original Mercedes blue.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Laying down the color. Truly felt like this day would never come!</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Prepping the "show clear" coat.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Laying down the clear. This guy is an exceptional painter and so fortunate to have had him do this car.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Done! </span></div>
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />Even though it's done, there are still some things that need fine tuning. More will be posted on those items as they get worked on.</span><br /></span></td></tr>
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<br />Classic Mercedeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01126388566563927102noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4259686316093209821.post-5668229354235388442019-01-19T08:01:00.000-08:002019-01-19T08:03:55.084-08:00Mercedes R107 Throttle Position Sensor - TPS<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The throttle position sensor or TPS is a critical component to the cars overall performance. It must be in perfect working order to deliver proper fuel economy, power and smooth engine operation. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As with any automotive component, the TPS can wear out or simply become dirty causing the engine to "buck" during exhilaration or cause a rough idle. The rough idle is generally more noticeable when the car is in gear, such as reverse or drive. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Mercedes/Bosch no longer offer new throttle position sensors for the Bosch D-Jetronic fuel injection system used in the early to mid 70's. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">If you are in need of a "new" unit, used units are available, but be sure you know they are working and have been checked if going that rout. Several ads on eBay suggested the unit was "working" when it was removed. For me, "working" does not tell me much. Mine is "working" but not as it should. Can I get the car down the road and onto the highway with my unit? Yes, but it's going to be a less than smooth, performance based trip.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In this article I will cover removing, checking, and cleaning the TPS from my 1975 Mercedes-Benz R107 which is not working properly. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">If you are going to engage in this, I would have a known working unit on hand incase yours breaks in the process of opening it up. Also, be forewarned, make sure if you are ordering one whether used or NOS, that you order and receive the correct TPS for your car. Bosch produced two unites for Mercedes, one for Federal cars and the other for California cars.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The throttle position sensor is located on the side of the throttle body and held on by a spring clip. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">STEP 1</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Remove the 2 locking screws, then use a flathead screwdriver and gently pry off TPS at the shaft from the back. NOTE: It will make life much easier to remove the throttle body from the engine. Just don't drop the 4 bolts into the engine compartment. You will not get those back.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oGYgRfFNJCw/XENDdi1ziTI/AAAAAAAAAoA/WWji1lTY4vIB0bW3iNA52IfaEj60YC90wCLcBGAs/s1600/Mercedes%2B450SL%2BTPS%2B1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="432" data-original-width="576" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oGYgRfFNJCw/XENDdi1ziTI/AAAAAAAAAoA/WWji1lTY4vIB0bW3iNA52IfaEj60YC90wCLcBGAs/s640/Mercedes%2B450SL%2BTPS%2B1.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">TPS connected to throttle body with cover removed. </td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">STEP 2</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This is the step that can very easily break the cover so be very careful releasing the cover. </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Now examine the contacts. The throttle position sensor shown is from my 450SL and as you can see is no longer serviceable. The make-and-break contacts are worn through, causing a very erratic idle and throttle up between 0 mph and 40 mph. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-84vqkv17lig/XENH2O-aa7I/AAAAAAAAAoQ/_jw6nNQRPWIfa0QcJOAIwNdQiUdfHyevgCLcBGAs/s1600/Mercedes%2B450SL%2BTPS%2B3%2Bcopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="954" data-original-width="1369" height="444" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-84vqkv17lig/XENH2O-aa7I/AAAAAAAAAoQ/_jw6nNQRPWIfa0QcJOAIwNdQiUdfHyevgCLcBGAs/s640/Mercedes%2B450SL%2BTPS%2B3%2Bcopy.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">Hard to see in this photo, but some of the gold is worn through to the backing.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-meef6N_x664/XENH1xSnzFI/AAAAAAAAAoM/x7qtq1tfJiEwvzdAfKdxkfcOk5mdWI3WQCLcBGAs/s1600/Mercedes%2B450SL%2BTPS%2B3.1%2Bcopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="333" data-original-width="478" height="444" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-meef6N_x664/XENH1xSnzFI/AAAAAAAAAoM/x7qtq1tfJiEwvzdAfKdxkfcOk5mdWI3WQCLcBGAs/s640/Mercedes%2B450SL%2BTPS%2B3.1%2Bcopy.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The red circles highlight where the gold is worn through causing the "short" in the circuit.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">STEP 3</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Based on the outcome of your investigation, the unit will either need to be replaced or cleaned. In this case it is no good.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">STEP 4</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">To clean, take a cotton swab with electronic cleaner and gently wipe over the surface of the contact board. If debris remains, take a white vinyl eraser and GENTLY erase the dirt from the contact area of the board. There can be no marks between the contacts or there will be a potential for short-circuiting.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">STEP 5</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I will do a subsequent article on how to test and adjust TPS. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>Classic Mercedeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01126388566563927102noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4259686316093209821.post-704197036216051192018-10-12T10:22:00.002-07:002018-10-12T10:22:58.371-07:00Mercedes W123 and R107 OEM Glass Shortage<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Depending where you live, you are likely to need a windshield sooner or later. In the case of several Mercedes-Benz models, that can be a challenge or impossible. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As of now, there is no OEM W123 windshield glass available from Mercedes. I spoke with the Mercedes-Benz Classic Center in California to acquire a new windshield, and was told it is out of stock and they don't know when it will be made available. They are hoping very soon as they are getting quite a few calls for it. </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In the meantime, you can get a new windshield from <a href="https://www.pilkington.com/en/us/automotive/pilkington-classics" target="_blank">Pilkington Classic</a> for about $220. </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">While I very much respect Pilkington for their glass, it does not supplement the original glass from Mercedes.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">When I purchased my 240D in 2015, I needed to get a new windshield and installed Pilkington glass as I was still not certain that I would keep the car long term. Now that I know I am keeping the car, and my three year old windshield is now damaged again from a landscape truck dropping gravel on the highway, I am wishing I could install OEM glass.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">With regard to the R107 OEM windshield glass, it is still available at about $500 a copy, but the side door glass is no longer in production and very few new pieces are left.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As it stands, my R107 is at the Mercedes dealer this week being fitted with a genuine Mercedes windshield. Now we can only hope this will last for many years to come, and not succumb to a haphazardly covered load of debris taking flight on the highway.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">If you are wanting OEM glass, please contact Mercedes-Benz USA or Europe and express your desire to have the original parts reproduced once again. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>Classic Mercedeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01126388566563927102noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4259686316093209821.post-80911131192171195502018-10-03T09:13:00.002-07:002018-10-03T09:13:43.438-07:00Mercedes R107 — Points vs. Electronic Ignition<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">While I am perhaps overly indebted to authenticity, there comes a point when modification is just worth it. Prime example, points ignition vs. electronic ignition. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Admittedly, I was very skeptical when I first installed electronic ignition in my 1965 Rolls-Royce Phantom V eight years ago. It has however been the best and only modification I have made to that car. </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I have now made this modification to the 1975 Mercedes 450SL and again, what a difference.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> The system I chose for the Mercedes 450SL was the <a href="http://shop.pertronix.com/pertronix-1885-ignitor-bosch-8-cyl.html#.W7To6KfMzOQ" target="_blank">Pertronix Ignitor electronic ignition (part 1885)</a> in combination with the <a href="http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/coils/40000_volt.aspx" target="_blank">Pertronix Flame Thrower 1.5 ohm, 40,000 volt coil</a>. The Flame Thrower coil is a must if you are going to make the modification. No, the coil does not look like the original OEM however, there are options to help that. More on that in an upcoming post. (For what it's worth, the Rolls-Royce received the Pertroinx Ignitor II system, which does not fit the 450SL. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">For the 1975 450SL, modifications will be needed on Pertronix Ignitor for it to fit properly in the distributor. The last I heard from Pertronix, was no plug and play version was going to be produced for this car as there was not enough demand as of yet.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The tachometer will also need to be reconfigured following the installation which is not complicated but once again it is not a simple plug and play as with many other cars that receive the system. More on how this is done in a future article.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Finally, you can decide either to leave the original Mercedes switch gear or eliminate it. I chose to eliminate it and remove the two resistors as recommended by Pertronix. If the resistors are kept inline, the Flame Thrower coil will not perform as designed, hindering the upgraded performance. Do however keep all your original components. Many collectors would like to have those quickly vanishing parts should you sell the car.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">To keep the look of the car original, I have left the switch gear and the two Bosch resistors in place. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Pros</b> of the Pertronix ignition? A much improved idle and engine responsiveness, in addition to a slightly increased fuel economy. One particular note of interest was noticing that both the Rolls-Royce and the Mercedes delivered a different exhaust smell following the installation of the electronic ignition. It was quite evident to the olfactory that the combustion was more complete. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Cons </b>A little extra wiring will need to be done and a bit of modification to the Ignitor unit itself to seat properly in the distributor. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>Classic Mercedeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01126388566563927102noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4259686316093209821.post-34501422366481895902018-08-08T08:59:00.001-07:002018-08-08T08:59:56.787-07:00Early 450SL/SLC Seat Adjustment Knob Removal<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Should it be necessary to remove the seat back adjusting knob from an early Mercedes R107 350SL, 450SL/SLC will require a bit more than just a pull or pry. If you are not sure what style adjusting knob is on your car check first, as you will destroy an early version by trying to pry it off.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The following is helpful should you need to replace the plastic chrome trim on the seat hinges or disassemble the seats for restoration.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 1</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Insert a small screwdriver into the 4 slots around the knob center insert as shown. Do this gently to avoid cracking the cover.</span><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-la1SXp9yypc/W2sPHsSRMtI/AAAAAAAAAm8/XXQuoQUOCQAhxMi9ZMZiq1YM9bf5udggQCEwYBhgL/s1600/450SL%2BSeat%2BAdjusting%2BKnob.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="455" data-original-width="432" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-la1SXp9yypc/W2sPHsSRMtI/AAAAAAAAAm8/XXQuoQUOCQAhxMi9ZMZiq1YM9bf5udggQCEwYBhgL/s640/450SL%2BSeat%2BAdjusting%2BKnob.jpg" width="606" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>STEP 2</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Using a hammer and screwdriver, gently tap the locking spring clip counter clockwise to the "unlock" position.</span><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hfbSpdAObZk/W2sQ7g-qtRI/AAAAAAAAAnE/-y3F_PKzaH4R51ms6DtZVsMJKvNsA4HGgCLcBGAs/s1600/450SL%2BR107%2BSeat%2BAdjusting%2BKnob%2Bcopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="324" data-original-width="432" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hfbSpdAObZk/W2sQ7g-qtRI/AAAAAAAAAnE/-y3F_PKzaH4R51ms6DtZVsMJKvNsA4HGgCLcBGAs/s640/450SL%2BR107%2BSeat%2BAdjusting%2BKnob%2Bcopy.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fha_boRJORo/W2sRdKM4OGI/AAAAAAAAAnM/TkfcS0LkdEw56IsWHt--kiis3HKkbFAfwCLcBGAs/s1600/R107%2B450SL%2BSeat%2BAdjusting%2BKnob.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="324" data-original-width="432" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fha_boRJORo/W2sRdKM4OGI/AAAAAAAAAnM/TkfcS0LkdEw56IsWHt--kiis3HKkbFAfwCLcBGAs/s640/R107%2B450SL%2BSeat%2BAdjusting%2BKnob.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The trim piece can now be removed. This would be the time to give the adjusting hinge mechanism a good cleaning.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Reassembly is the reverse.</span></div>
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Classic Mercedeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01126388566563927102noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4259686316093209821.post-78032747869545687782018-07-20T12:59:00.003-07:002018-07-20T12:59:52.440-07:00W123 Mercedes VDO Tempomat Cruise Control Actuator Replacement<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The Mercedes-Benz VDO W123 Tempomat cruise control is now going on 42 years of service for the first years of production. Or perhaps it is no longer in service due to mechanical failure. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">These units, based on the research I have done, are pretty robust and are serving a good long time. That said, my 1981 240D with the bellows style VDO Tempomat actuator has been baking under the hood in the desert for many years and is finally not holding proper vacuum. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eByT2w26h3c/W0KpPBTdGRI/AAAAAAAAAl8/Jy7wHGxBQ-IwKaoyj0cZA31x5FhGK6d6wCLcBGAs/s1600/W123%2BMercedes%2BCruise%2BControl%2BTempomat.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eByT2w26h3c/W0KpPBTdGRI/AAAAAAAAAl8/Jy7wHGxBQ-IwKaoyj0cZA31x5FhGK6d6wCLcBGAs/s320/W123%2BMercedes%2BCruise%2BControl%2BTempomat.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><i>Mercedes W123 VDO Tempomat cruise</i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>NOTE:</b> Before you get a new actuator, they are $640, make sure it is not the amplifier (the brains) under the driver side dash or a vacuum leak elsewhere. The amplifier is subject to intense heat and vibration and they do get fickle with age. Several symptoms of a amplifier going bad is being able to increase your speed using the cruise control lever but not being able to set that speed once you let go. Other scenarios include the cruise control cutting out while engaged. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I have already replaced my control unit with a remanufactured unit several months back as new units are not available from Mercedes.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Once the cruise control began working, I realized it had probably not been used in many years and the actuator began to malfunction after several trips on the highway. The symptoms: Once the speed was set, it would steadily lose it a few miles per hour every several seconds. Either the Tempomat was losing vacuum due to a dry rotting bellows or the internal vacuum/vent switch was not engaging properly. </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> Either way, in my case, it was time for a new unit as I knew I did not have any vacuum leaks.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: helvetica neue, arial, helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>NOTE:</b> It is also important to note that the cruise control actuator is to be hooked up to the 2/3 way yellow and gray vacuum check valve (some check valve used for the door locks) which draws vacuum from the vacuum reservoir tank located in the trunk above the gas tank. Make sure this is not leaking or it will cause problems with your cruise control among other problems.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>REPLACING THE VDO TEMPOMAT CRUISE CONTROL ACTUATOR</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The replacement of the actuator is not complicated at all, but one that will require a great deal of finesse to remove the bowden cable, if you wish to save the cable. While there are a number of NOS actuators available from Mercedes, there are evidently only two bowden cables remaining in the global Mercedes stock. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">While the cable is not fragile, all the plastic clips that are necessary to keep the cable in place are! If you break any of these clips the cable will not function.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 1</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Disconnect the vacuum, and vent lines along with the electrical plug. Now is the time to make sure no vacuum hoses or rubber connectors are failing.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><i>Disconnect the three plugs show in the photo. The gray nut for the vent line is plastic!</i></td></tr>
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<b style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">STEP 2</b><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Remove the nut holding the actuator in the bracket.</span><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q5BJ1W441Mo/W0KtsK3ydzI/AAAAAAAAAmc/j_HO1qiysAUnwzFSgNYEKbCOU9o_BD9iACLcBGAs/s1600/Mercedes-Benz%2BW123%2BCruise%2B%2BControl.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q5BJ1W441Mo/W0KtsK3ydzI/AAAAAAAAAmc/j_HO1qiysAUnwzFSgNYEKbCOU9o_BD9iACLcBGAs/s640/Mercedes-Benz%2BW123%2BCruise%2B%2BControl.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">STEP 3</b><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Carefully release the bowden cable from the throttle linkage (valve cover area). Remember, the plastic clips are very brittle and are ready to crumble. Gently using needle nose pliers will work well.</span><br />
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<b style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">STEP 4</b><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Unscrew the plastic threaded adjusting "nut" and once again using the needle nose pliers release the next section of the bowden cable.</span><br />
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<b style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">STEP 5</b><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Push the cable toward the actuator to give a bit of slack to remove the next clip. This clip is awkward to remove and is too ready to fall apart. Go slow and gentle.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 6</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Unscrew the three screws at the actuator retaining plate for the bowden cable. Give yourself enough slack for room to work. </span><br />
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<b style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">STEP 7</b><br />
<span style="font-family: helvetica neue, arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">Release bowden cable from cover</span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F5CJagKy78o/W1I8qEQRmII/AAAAAAAAAmw/N0BUdi5efgwoSHmbrif1z0sgYUFkgvPgACEwYBhgL/s1600/240D%2BW123%2BCruise%2BActuator%2BVacuum.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="540" data-original-width="720" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F5CJagKy78o/W1I8qEQRmII/AAAAAAAAAmw/N0BUdi5efgwoSHmbrif1z0sgYUFkgvPgACEwYBhgL/s640/240D%2BW123%2BCruise%2BActuator%2BVacuum.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">STEP 8</b><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">With the cable removed, the installation process is the reverse. </span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">STEP 9</span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The following steps are for the W123 second generation diesel models only! To adjust earlier models, W115 and W123, please refer to the Mercedes Service Manual.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Adjust the cable. If the cable is not properly adjusted according to the Mercedes service manual the cruise control will not function properly. Make the following check and adjust cable length as necessary with the plastic threaded adjusting "nut": Press and hold the emergency stop lever (diesel) in the off position and check the slack of the cable.</span><br />
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Classic Mercedeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01126388566563927102noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4259686316093209821.post-25207452844230752752018-07-03T18:49:00.001-07:002021-08-15T08:00:10.828-07:00Mercedes R107 450SL Bumpers – U.S. Market Cars<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In the early 1970's the U.S. Department of Transportation required upgraded bumpers to accept a 5 mph "tap" without any significant damage. As many will remember, these bumpers were pretty ugly and extended the length of the car significantly. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Mounted on twin shocks, with rubber corners, rubber block overriders and rubber impact strips, they have now taken on a certain retro charm. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Disassembling the bumper for restoration or repair is not complicated and is well worth it if you are wanting to do your car right. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 1</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Both the front and rear bumper are held in place by two shocks mounted to the body of the car and by two mounting brackets on each side of the driver and passenger fenders (front and back). Start by detaching the side brackets. Next, simply remove the shock bolts and remove the bumper. <b>NOTE: </b>The bumpers are fairly heavy and awkward. I would recommend making this a two person job to avoid damaging the car or the bumper. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 2</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Once the bumper(s) have been removed it is time for disassembly. My stainless steel caps were fairly dinged up, but purchasing new ones will cost you a considerable amount. With that knowledge at hand, I decided to have the old caps restored. You can either take the caps to a metal polishing shop who will beat out the dents and polish or, should you have the skill and tools to remove the dents it will save you a good bit of money. I chose the latter as I have metal working experience and once dent free, took the caps to be polished. I would recommend not attempting to polish at home unless you have professional equipment. Getting the mirror finish can not be achieved with consumer grade tools.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 3</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Next, remove the turn signal units to avoid any damage to them. Should you need one or two they are still available, as are just the lenses. The OEM unit is ULO and can be obtained from <a href="https://www.autohausaz.com/" target="_blank">AutohausAZ</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 4</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Now remove the shocks from the bumper. Remove the 4 bolts and extract shock along with two brackets and 2 rubber buffers.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 5</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">With the shocks removed, the retaining nut for the overriders will be exposed—remove.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 6</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Remove the rubber bumper end caps by removing the 3 nuts and bolts. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 7</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Now remove the rubber impact strip inserts. The front bumper will slide out, while the rear bumper will require the removal of one overrider/shock bracket to remove the impact strip.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 8</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">At this stage the stainless steel bumper caps are now ready to be removed. Work carefully when removing to avoid bending the metal. Slightly lift up each tab to loosen the cap. Gently pry off cap from the back side (not the front lip). The tabs do not need to be opened up very much to get the cap off. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Be mindful that you will be working around a rubber gasket and soft rubber sponge strip used to eliminate water and vibration.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">With the bumper now disassembled and while the caps are off getting worked on, now is the time to clean and prep the bumpers. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As you will see, the lower portion of the bumper is factory painted with a "rocker panel" stone guard. <a href="https://www.semproducts.com/product/heavy-texture-chip-guard/guard" target="_blank">SEM</a> makes a very good product for this application - <a href="https://www.semproducts.com/product/heavy-texture-chip-guard/guard" target="_blank">Part No. 39793</a>. Make sure to scrape, sand and clean very well before reapplying a new coating. Spray in even long strokes and do not apply in heavy coats. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">At this stage and once the bumper is dry for a good 24 hours at 75°F, the bumper can be reassembled and installed. Again, I would recommend this as a two person job.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>Classic Mercedeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01126388566563927102noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4259686316093209821.post-79311428060110325972018-06-17T10:20:00.000-07:002018-06-17T10:20:02.881-07:00W123 Valve Train Noise After Oil Change<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">If you own a W123 Mercedes diesel and have heard what appears to be valve train clatter, ticking, clicking, tapping, your choice of words, it may very well be the timing chain tensioner. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Since 2015 my 1981 Mercedes 240D has clattered on start up following an oil change. This apparent valve train noise however subsided the moment the system pressurized, roughly 5-7 seconds. </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">According to Mercedes the 5-7 seconds it took to pressurize was perfectly normal but the clattering was not. Ironically no one pointed to the tensioner as a possible problem.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Understand, the W123 diesels, whether 240 or 300 series engines, do not have hydraulic lifters so there should be nothing to "tick, clatter or tap". The one thing that is hydraulic is the timing chain tensioner.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Changing the timing chain tensioner is not hard and will also potentially restore your timing by a touch, reduce a considerable amount of noise from the engine bay and the biggest thing of all, save other components from being destroyed!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 1</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Drain radiator. If you have not changed the coolant in the past 2-3 years, now is the time to service the cooling system. Do a complete flush with new Mercedes coolant. FYI, why do I recommend Mercedes coolant, simple they have proprietary additives that keep the system in good shape for the duration of the 2-3 years it is in the system. Other coolants I have tired have not maintained their clarity on changing as the Mercedes brand has. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 2</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Remove the thermostat housing assembly from the head. You will only need to disconnect the short coolant hose shown below. Check this hose for any dry rot and replace if necessary. NOTE: A considerable amount of coolant will flow out when disconnecting.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In addition, I would highly recommend to replace the two bolts holding the thermostat assembly to the head. They pass through the water jacket and will most likely be rotting. Mercedes has them for about $6 ea. Worth the price to not have a broken bolt the next time you have to get into the system.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This is also good time to replace the thermostat if you need a new one.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">STEP 3</span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Remove the 2 bolts and one exhaust manifold nut. NOTE: more than likely this tensioner will be stuck in place and will need to be pried off the side of the head, but if it still has any "spring" left it will pop out. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">STEP 4</span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">At this stage you can disassemble and see if you can rebuild the unit. Mercedes has the spring but no longer make several other key components in the system that will more than likely need replacing. I went by way of a new tensioner as I need two parts that were no longer available. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Mercedes-Benz still has the tensioner available for about $330. Febi a German OEM supplier also has them for about $75. I am a big fan of all OEM but in this case I could not see a difference in construction and went with the Febi. Time will tell.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 5</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Clean the area around the tensioner hole making sure not to introduce any dirt into the engine. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 6</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Place gasket on end of new tensioner and mount. The new tensioner will have much more resistance and will require you to compress it while installing the bolts. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 7</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Reinstall cooling system components, and refill system with coolant. Do not use the old coolant. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 8</b> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Run car and listen for any unusual sounds. Check coolant level after engine has cooled. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>Classic Mercedeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01126388566563927102noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4259686316093209821.post-64413443356612390442018-05-07T13:27:00.004-07:002021-08-15T08:01:42.669-07:00Removing Mercedes R107 450SL Dashboard Vents<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After 43 years, the heat and A/C vents are filthy and not moving freely as they did from the factory. While the dashboard is out and being prepped for refinishing I decided to remove the five ball vents for a good cleaning. Here is how to do this with ease. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The vents are held to the dashboard by a large "wave" washer and two built in clips. </span><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aK38H0eQC0Q/WvC0gAoqenI/AAAAAAAAAkA/Koc-L1-aB50hwnguWR5nRlXsLDxtEozzACLcBGAs/s1600/Mercedes%2BAC%2BVent%2BDashboard.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="692" data-original-width="1400" height="316" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aK38H0eQC0Q/WvC0gAoqenI/AAAAAAAAAkA/Koc-L1-aB50hwnguWR5nRlXsLDxtEozzACLcBGAs/s640/Mercedes%2BAC%2BVent%2BDashboard.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">To remove the vent nozzle depress one of the plastic tabs and gently lift up on that side to keep it from snapping back in place. Repeat the process with the other tab and gently separate the two halves. For the three center vents, a wide flat screwdriver worked great. The end vents however, did not have the room needed for the screwdriver and so I used a paint can opener which worked excellently. </span><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-w_Nnbm1o7EY/WvC1tLILzII/AAAAAAAAAkM/QTO--bFVQvMDixewg5bzPUrfNpCvp92wwCLcBGAs/s1600/Mercedes-Benz%2BDash%2BVent%2BRemoval.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-w_Nnbm1o7EY/WvC1tLILzII/AAAAAAAAAkM/QTO--bFVQvMDixewg5bzPUrfNpCvp92wwCLcBGAs/s640/Mercedes-Benz%2BDash%2BVent%2BRemoval.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Next, take a very small screwdriver and gently pry wave washer over tabs and carefully press remaining assembly through the front of the dashboard. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Once the vent assembly has been removed, it can be cleaned. I use Dawn liquid dish detergent and a soft toothbrush and warm water. The results could not be better. NOTE: Remember the plastics are old and brittle. Be very careful and don't force anything—unless money is no object. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i0p5upw4lNg/WvC2Cr92YHI/AAAAAAAAAkU/ECfUDCLnctcWuUpEqQUlcsc1hXKiCfhQQCLcBGAs/s1600/Mercedes%2BDash%2BVent%2BCleaning.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="893" data-original-width="1200" height="476" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i0p5upw4lNg/WvC2Cr92YHI/AAAAAAAAAkU/ECfUDCLnctcWuUpEqQUlcsc1hXKiCfhQQCLcBGAs/s640/Mercedes%2BDash%2BVent%2BCleaning.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">The vent assembly looked and worked like new after cleaning and reassembly. It's worth the time and effort.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">DO NOT grease or lubricate any part in the vent assembly. It was not done from the factory and should not be done now as any lubricant will attract a considerable amount of dirt in the vent. If the vents don't feel buttery smooth, know they weren't when the car was new either. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The process of installation is the reverse.</span>Classic Mercedeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01126388566563927102noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4259686316093209821.post-21422195728932223032018-04-26T14:46:00.001-07:002021-08-15T08:10:17.560-07:00Mercedes R107 450SL High Quality Aftermarket Tail Light Lenses & Seals<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Depending on where your Mercedes has spent most of its life, the tail light lenses might very well be cracking or simply dull and or discolored. The rubber weather seal is a whole other story.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Since November 2017, I have been on the <a href="https://www.theslshop.com/" target="_blank">SL Shop</a> waiting list for the first round of aftermarket Mercedes R107 tail light lenses and it was worth the wait. Admittedly, I was a bit skeptical, but seeing is believing and this is an excellent reproduction. The lenses appear to be a very good quality and the fit is just as the originals. As with any product, time will tell if they are as excellent as the originals. The colors are very deep and rich which is often a shortcoming on aftermarket lenses. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">With the lenses I also purchased the weather seals from the <a href="https://www.theslshop.com/" target="_blank">SL Shop</a>. These seals have a perfect fit and first rate quality in addition to feeling every bit as good as the Mercedes weather seals for a fraction of the cost. Again, another several decades will be the true test, but for now it couldn't get any better.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The SL Shop, located in the UK, has provided me with numerous parts thus far for the R017 restoration. I am not only very pleased with all of the parts, but am just as delighted with their dedication to customer service. While I source many of my parts directly from Mercedes, I will continue to purchase from the SL Shop on excessively priced parts or aftermarket parts no longer available from Mercedes.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The following images </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue", arial, helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: center;">show the original 43 year old Mercedes taillight along with the new after market version. NOTE: When reinstalling, DO NOT over tighten as the lens assembly can crack. The bolts are to be snug, not tight. In addition, do not force any of the parts together. They fit very snugly and should be eased back in place.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The M-B original has faded over the years from being parked in the desert for 8+ years, but remains in remarkable condition.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Every detail is expertly replicated</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Assembly as it came out of car before cleaning for reinstallation.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>Classic Mercedeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01126388566563927102noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4259686316093209821.post-49277926591152840092018-04-24T09:04:00.000-07:002018-04-24T09:04:21.420-07:00W123 Transmission Vacuum Diagram & Shift Issues<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">If your W123 diesel has shift issues, there is a very good chance that the transmission is just fine. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">There are several things to check, and most of them are vacuum related. Any part of the vacuum system that is failing can and will cause disruption to the transmissions ability to shift properly</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>SYMPTOMS:</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Transmission quickly progresses through gears (1-4) from a stop and does so a bit sloppily. Or perhaps there is flaring between particular shifts. Or perhaps, the transmission is not wanting to shift at all or shifts very late.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">These symptoms should be checked at once to avoid potential damage to the transmission. The following check list will help determine what might be going wrong.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>CHECK LIST:</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Transmission Fluid:</b> Drive car for at least 15 min. to make sure engine and transmission are at full operating temperature. Check fluid level with gear selector in "N". Do not use "P" as you will not get an accurate reading. NEVER OVER FILL the transmission.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Vacuum System: </b>Must be in perfect working order. Even the smallest leak can cause havoc on how the transmission shifts. If need be, isolate the leaking sections by disconnecting them and capping off at the location. Remember, if the vacuum is to high the transmission will want to shift to quickly, if the vacuum is to low, the transmission will not want to shift at all. The transmission vacuum system for the Mercedes 240D is as follows:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12.800000190734863px;">The VCV and Transmission vacuum modulator are no longer available from Mercedes-Benz.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Main Vacuum Circuit Components</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Change over valve (located on top of valve cover) This part breaks regularly!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Vacuum control valve (VCV)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Vacuum modulator (located at side of transmission)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Vacuum Dashpot (check valve) green in color</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>ADJUSTMENTS:</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">If your transmission fluid is at a proper level the next step is to ensure your vacuum system is in perfect working order along with the throttle linkage being properly adjusted</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Once you are sure the fluid, vacuum and linkage are in good working order, the next step is to adjust the VCV valve. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>HOW TO ADJUST THE VAVLE:</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">1. Loosen the VCV valve retaining bolts (no need to remove)</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZMkE_o6Bs30/Wt9QPmhzGdI/AAAAAAAAAi8/aiLE6DG0oek-1Qu_rTrH7vm9zsnguIqMgCLcBGAs/s1600/Mercedes%2BVCV%2BTransmission%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="541" data-original-width="600" height="576" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZMkE_o6Bs30/Wt9QPmhzGdI/AAAAAAAAAi8/aiLE6DG0oek-1Qu_rTrH7vm9zsnguIqMgCLcBGAs/s640/Mercedes%2BVCV%2BTransmission%2B1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">When bolt has been loosened, screws and hose removed, gently remove cover.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">2. Remove side cover</span><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KG9Yb_egrkY/Wt9S16X0lmI/AAAAAAAAAjI/20SnPq8r-oYh4_9JnW6t_mM5T10j-ptSwCLcBGAs/s1600/W123%2BMercedes%2BVCV%2BTransmission.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="535" data-original-width="600" height="570" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KG9Yb_egrkY/Wt9S16X0lmI/AAAAAAAAAjI/20SnPq8r-oYh4_9JnW6t_mM5T10j-ptSwCLcBGAs/s640/W123%2BMercedes%2BVCV%2BTransmission.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">3. Using a wrench, turn the nut on the end of the spring counter clockwise if your transmission is shifting early and clockwise if shifting late. <b>NOTE:</b> To make this adjustment you <b>MUST</b> hold the throttle linkage in the closed position while turning the nut. It is also important <b>NOT</b> turn the the adjusting nut more than a few millimeters at a time. If you over adjust, your transmission will not shift out of first gear. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Leave the cover off while test-driving the car to make it easier to make adjustments while you are on the road.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">If this adjustment still leaves your transmission shifting a bit late or early the next step is to adjust the transmission vacuum modulator which we will cover in a subsequent article. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>Classic Mercedeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01126388566563927102noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4259686316093209821.post-8492988794455940932018-04-11T15:57:00.000-07:002018-04-11T15:57:14.003-07:00Mercedes Vacuum Diagram<div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I developed the following digram for the 1975 R107 Mercedes-Benz 450SL so I would have a complete guide should anything go wrong after the car is put back together. This digram does not show the engine vacuum. </span><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wByiQIVkFyE/Ws5-1F_xhcI/AAAAAAAAAic/lltGcIG0V3cxX3ZJzFS_rdX_5EeNr7nzQCLcBGAs/s1600/Mercedes%2B450SL%2BVacuum%2BDiagram.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1358" data-original-width="1158" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wByiQIVkFyE/Ws5-1F_xhcI/AAAAAAAAAic/lltGcIG0V3cxX3ZJzFS_rdX_5EeNr7nzQCLcBGAs/s640/Mercedes%2B450SL%2BVacuum%2BDiagram.png" width="544" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>LEAK DETECTION:</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">When diagnosing leaks in the Mercedes vacuum system, a vacuum pump with gauge is mandatory or should you have a smoke machine on hand, that would be the ultimate way to go. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">First, start by checking the vacuum tanks for leaks. One is located directly under the front fender on the passenger side above the wheel (LHD). This tank supplies vacuum to the central locking system and cruise control. The other tank is located behind a panel to the left of the emergency brake. This one hold vacuum for the climate control. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XsLnNtnP8VE/Ws5z7lr9pUI/AAAAAAAAAhs/c_xSv3hSteo_31-cLvOUvnzWeESUhyiAwCLcBGAs/s1600/R107%2BVacuum%2BReservoir%2BTank.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XsLnNtnP8VE/Ws5z7lr9pUI/AAAAAAAAAhs/c_xSv3hSteo_31-cLvOUvnzWeESUhyiAwCLcBGAs/s640/R107%2BVacuum%2BReservoir%2BTank.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">Unscrew plastic panel and slide away to expose tank. To remove tank and panel, e-brake assembly must be removed.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z-rFBrQDVB8/Ws52R_FbthI/AAAAAAAAAh8/MdPOu3Ybsh0cMaHQbEbhdErwLYOLZs_jgCLcBGAs/s1600/R107%2BVacuum%2BReservoir%2BTank.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="871" data-original-width="1200" height="464" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z-rFBrQDVB8/Ws52R_FbthI/AAAAAAAAAh8/MdPOu3Ybsh0cMaHQbEbhdErwLYOLZs_jgCLcBGAs/s640/R107%2BVacuum%2BReservoir%2BTank.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">Passenger side U.S. model</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The vacuum tank for the climate control should not have any issue with deterioration other than the rubber grommet that seals the tank where the vacuum line enters. This part is still available through Mercedes.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The central locking vacuum tank however is susceptible to damage and deterioration as it is open to the elements just above the front wheel. Both the tank and grommet are still available from Mercedes.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A good test to perform to insure proper vacuum is maintained, is to pump up the tank down to 10 mHg. Make certain that your connections are leak free and your gauge is good. The tank should hold vacuum for at least 48 hours without any loss of vacuum. Conduct this test on both tanks. I personally would not recommend using the smoke machine to test the vacuum tanks. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Finding leaks in the system is not complicated, but time consuming. Most often it is the rubber connectors that dry rot and begin to leak. If you have the original system, it is best to test each section of vacuum line by disconnecting, capping and testing one section at a time. The digram will show how the system is divided up throughout the car.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Vacuum leaks are also very prevalent at the diaphragm type locking modules. At 40+ years, the rubber diaphragms are quite crispy and will likely leak. These include the heater tap, fresh air flaps at cowl, passenger side door, fuel flap, and trunk. The passenger side door lock, and trunk lock on earlier 450SL's are no longer available from Mercedes.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Other points of leakage are the driver door lock master vacuum switch and the vacuum switch at the A/C switch. Both switches are identical in function but are designed differently. Both are available from Mercedes.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cx-_HZVOpFk/Ws54qPPWQHI/AAAAAAAAAiM/arVpdUSL_VMmjd0gfewtxXHMtlzwhQopwCLcBGAs/s1600/Mercedes%2BAC%2BVacuum.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="776" data-original-width="1200" height="412" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cx-_HZVOpFk/Ws54qPPWQHI/AAAAAAAAAiM/arVpdUSL_VMmjd0gfewtxXHMtlzwhQopwCLcBGAs/s640/Mercedes%2BAC%2BVacuum.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">Vacuum for A/C Switch is still available through Mercedes-Benz</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The final potential point of a vacuum leak is the Ford-Philco cruise control unit. The cruise control unit is most likely under the dash behind the glove box on a U.S. car.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It is also wise to change out any check valves. They are located under the hood at the fire wall driver side. Original check valves are black and green while the new ones are blue and black. These are unmetered.</span></div>
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Classic Mercedeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01126388566563927102noreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4259686316093209821.post-33084015044302013552018-03-30T15:13:00.000-07:002018-03-30T15:13:04.546-07:00Mercedes-Benz Mislabeled Parts<span style="color: orange; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>If you own an R107 (convertible) and need either a new fuel tank filler neck grommet (seal) or a fuel filler door vacuum lock, they have been improperly labeled by Mercedes.</b></span><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7jv8GE6YMdQ/Wr60mtu7wEI/AAAAAAAAAhE/RkyC1AtZuMUT-bR0SoGLDUbYWaiXSUTjwCLcBGAs/s1600/Mercedes%2BR107%2BGas%2BTank%2Bcopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7jv8GE6YMdQ/Wr60mtu7wEI/AAAAAAAAAhE/RkyC1AtZuMUT-bR0SoGLDUbYWaiXSUTjwCLcBGAs/s640/Mercedes%2BR107%2BGas%2BTank%2Bcopy.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>107 Fuel Tank Filler Neck Grommet</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">If you order this part from any of the resellers or directly from Mercedes-Benz, for your R107, you will most likely receive part number 123 997 35 81. This is incorrect, as it is for a W123 and does not fit the R107. The correct part number is <b>107 997 24 81</b>. This however does not end the confusion. This part number, although correct, is labeled in the Mercedes system to only fit the C107 (coupe) which is incorrect. It fits both the R107 and C107 cars. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: helvetica neue, arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">Yes, this seal is important so water does not enter the trunk during rain or washing. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B7QirNRFltk/Wr6040z5j7I/AAAAAAAAAhI/WeyvXrYmPQ8MVLkWp0--b-9D8JsIzx9cwCLcBGAs/s1600/Mercedes%2BR107%2BFuel%2BTank%2BSeal%2Bcopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B7QirNRFltk/Wr6040z5j7I/AAAAAAAAAhI/WeyvXrYmPQ8MVLkWp0--b-9D8JsIzx9cwCLcBGAs/s640/Mercedes%2BR107%2BFuel%2BTank%2BSeal%2Bcopy.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">The photo shows an old R107/C107 seal and a new W123 seal. As you can see, very different design.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>107 Fuel Filler Door Lock</b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Similar to the grommet, if you purchase the R107 fuel filler door vacuum lock for an R107, it will turn up an incorrect part. The correct part is <b>107 800 12 75</b> which once again shows it will only fit the C107 (coupe).</span><br />
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<span style="color: orange; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>NOTE:</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As with any purchase, make sure to check your individual chassis and part. Mercedes, like many manufacturers changed parts etc., throughout production.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">If you are unfamiliar with the Mercedes part numbering system, the first three digits of the 10 digit number usually indicate the body/chassis production design, i.e., 123 000 00 00 is for a W123 (240, 300...) and 107 000 00 00 would indicate R107/C107 (350, 450 560...)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">While Mercedes does supersede part numbers on occasion, it will still generally be superseded with in the same similar time period of production. For example a W116 might have a part number supersede to an R107 and visa versa. </span>Classic Mercedeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01126388566563927102noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4259686316093209821.post-34427601682522497762018-03-13T08:11:00.004-07:002021-08-15T08:09:23.654-07:00Mercedes W123 Brake Peddle Repair<span style="color: orange; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>With the introduction of automotive plastics in the 1970's, time is now and will continue to take its toll on these parts. </b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A part that will more than likely fail if you own a W123, will be the plastic brake peddle bushing/retainer. Thankfully, Mercedes still has the parts to get the job done.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">If you notice side-to-side movement in our brake peddle, it's time make the repair. By leaving this part unattended to can cause brake booster failure.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 1</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Remove lower dash covers</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 2</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Unplug wiring as needed and lower cruise control module. You can let the cruise control unit hang to the side</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 3</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Remove brake master cylinder and booster</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 4</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Unplug brake light switch. This is a two part plug, but can be unplugged as one.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 5</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Remove brake peddle holder assembly. To do this, wiggle assembly back and forth while pulling toward back of car. It will take a bit of work to release the assembly from the dash brace and rubber buffer. Don't lose the rubber buffer, and check to make sure it is in good shape. You will want to make sure you have this rubber part as it will cause vibration and other noises if you do not.</span><br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KPL7Jgoo5jg/Wqfm3TgAYXI/AAAAAAAAAgo/vngJedPofoIeStQOA6uqojoLkYpxaLBMACLcBGAs/s1600/W123%2Bbrake%2Bpeddle%2Bassembly.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="391" data-original-width="800" height="312" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KPL7Jgoo5jg/Wqfm3TgAYXI/AAAAAAAAAgo/vngJedPofoIeStQOA6uqojoLkYpxaLBMACLcBGAs/s640/W123%2Bbrake%2Bpeddle%2Bassembly.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 6</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Remove return spring from peddle and remove brake peddle from assembly.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 7</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Gently tap bushing into brake peddle with rubber or plastic mallet until fully seated.</span><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-x04Izo2ROM8/Wqfo5mcSKaI/AAAAAAAAAg0/Fu7JyyJ8Z2ozOwhNZ-XZhuzdYUNgFqq_wCLcBGAs/s1600/W123%2Bbushing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="324" data-original-width="432" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-x04Izo2ROM8/Wqfo5mcSKaI/AAAAAAAAAg0/Fu7JyyJ8Z2ozOwhNZ-XZhuzdYUNgFqq_wCLcBGAs/s640/W123%2Bbushing.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 8</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Reinstall brake peddle to assembly.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 9</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Do not order the bushing until you remove the entire unit first. It appears some of the cars needed shims. If all is not very tight it will cause excess movement in the peddle and cause the new bushing to fail. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 10</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Return assembly as it was removed.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 11</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Return booster, master cylinder and fluid reservoir</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 12</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Refill system with approved brake fluid and bleed braking system. Make sure there is no air in the lines. You can make this process much easier and a one man operation if you purchase <a href="http://www.speedbleeder.com/" target="_blank">Speed Bleeder</a> brake bleeders. Excellent product and excellent customer service.</span><br />
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Classic Mercedeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01126388566563927102noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4259686316093209821.post-19047766128769745612018-03-04T14:30:00.001-08:002018-03-07T05:45:46.579-08:00W123 • Fuel Pressure Relief Valve<span style="color: orange; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Final check to insure a smooth idle... The Fuel Pressure Relief Valve. It's simple, quick and just might make all the difference in the world. </b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It's hard to believe just how much bad information gets on the web. What's worse is how gullible we often are to buy into it without question or further research. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">On occasion I scour the web to see what bad information I can find on ways people suggest fixing particular automotive problems. After just a few minutes of reading or watching a Youtube video, it becomes evident most people never read the workshop manual. For 99% of any problem that will arise on your car, there is a corresponding fix from the manufacturer. No guessing required what so ever.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Unfortunately so many great older cars are being butchered from bad advice, laziness, or the assumption the manufacturer had no clue what they were doing from the start. Indeed there are manufacturers who built very unreliable products that should have never been put on a car, but as it pertains to Mercedes, there are few components that were engineered that did not perform near flawlessly.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">With that in mind, if your diesel is still running rough with all the previously mentioned items checked or replaced, there is one last component to getting your W123 diesel to run like it did from day one. The Fuel Pressure Relief Valve.</span><br />
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<span style="color: orange; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 1</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Locate Fuel Pressure Relief Valve highlighted in green.</span><br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2ILRmG_1Ggg/WpxiCWbkPxI/AAAAAAAAAf8/pebG88--wJwDtv55MsrQHcGnWWsyBNofQCLcBGAs/s1600/W123-240D-Fuel-Pressure-Relief-Valve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="600" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2ILRmG_1Ggg/WpxiCWbkPxI/AAAAAAAAAf8/pebG88--wJwDtv55MsrQHcGnWWsyBNofQCLcBGAs/s640/W123-240D-Fuel-Pressure-Relief-Valve.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: orange; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 2</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Remove valve. Fuel will run out so have a rag under the valve and/or a drip pan under the car. Note from photo wish bolt to loosen. </span><br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5EH7UQK2D4I/WpxhyUgrEHI/AAAAAAAAAf4/z5bdGSxPveAKSd6e0VdNoYXb57NwHcX_QCEwYBhgL/s1600/Mercedes-240D-Fuel%2BSystem.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1223" data-original-width="1600" height="488" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5EH7UQK2D4I/WpxhyUgrEHI/AAAAAAAAAf4/z5bdGSxPveAKSd6e0VdNoYXb57NwHcX_QCEwYBhgL/s640/Mercedes-240D-Fuel%2BSystem.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Once the valve has been removed, it will need to be separated and checked. To separate, either hold with two wrenches or carefully place in a vice and loosen the top "bolt" cap. <b><span style="color: red;">WARNING: </span><span style="background-color: #444444;">Only loosen! Separate valve by hand and over a pan or rag. A spring and ball bearing are inside. </span></b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #444444;">Once</span><span style="background-color: white;"> </span>separated, the is what you will see.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--PSeQV-EWK0/WpxtpWARg8I/AAAAAAAAAgQ/LleLn2mvRKEU4y8KGz116wl9dJzGdFwFgCLcBGAs/s1600/Pressure%2BRelief%2Bvalve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="600" height="426" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--PSeQV-EWK0/WpxtpWARg8I/AAAAAAAAAgQ/LleLn2mvRKEU4y8KGz116wl9dJzGdFwFgCLcBGAs/s640/Pressure%2BRelief%2Bvalve.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><i>Mercedes-Benz Fuel Pressure Relief Valve from a 1981 240D</i></td></tr>
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<span style="color: orange; font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>STEP 3</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Make sure everything is thoroughly cleaned after taking this apart. It should already be very clean since fuel is constantly flowing through this valve. It can however attract sludge depending on how the car has been maintained. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Once clean, measure the spring using a micrometer. When I measured the spring that was removed from my valve, it measured 19.76mm. According to the Mercedes-Benz worship manual it can measure up to 27mm max. Based on the max of 27mm, I gently stretched the spring to 25mm exactly, and reinstalled.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This simple procedure made the most drastic difference of anything I could have done. While the car was running much better with all the other adjustments and replacement parts, this "put the icing on the cake, as the video in my last post demonstrated.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Mercedes must have known this could or would become an issue since it is specifically mentioned in the manual. Regardless, it's worth the check to see if your spring has compressed over the many years in service. I'm sure it has, and could use a stretch.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I would not recommend starting off with 27mm however. Good luck.</span>Classic Mercedeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01126388566563927102noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4259686316093209821.post-46658971493493564032018-03-03T15:11:00.002-08:002018-03-03T15:11:35.151-08:00W123 Mercedes 240D Idle Test - Video<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A well running W123 diesel should be very smooth. Over the years I have been told "they all rattle and vibrate, they always have, even new." </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I have had a hard time believing Mercedes-Benz would or could ever sell a car that vibrated as much as I have been told is "normal." Mercedes was up against high-end luxury cars in the United States and had to meet a fairly high standard of luxury and comfort regardless of whether or not it was a diesel.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">With that in mind, I set out on a journey to see just what was necessary to make my 1981 240D run like Mercedes designed it to. With many checks and a number of maintenance items replaced, this car is once again running excellently and I am pretty convinced it is running close to factory if not at factory spec. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It should be noted that the process of "tuning" should begin with a compression test. If that fails, no need to go further until that is rectified. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The following test is usually performed on Rolls-Royce, but I thought it would be a great demonstration for a diesel, and the results truly surprised me. Prior to the work I performed, this glass would have bounced right off the valve cover.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>Classic Mercedeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01126388566563927102noreply@blogger.com2